Tag: surfing

!I Ride~a ROZO!

I ride a Rozo. On the bottom of my board, pencilled in, is the word TEAM. When I first saw that, I felt as if, I had waited all of my life, for that moment. I felt recognized. I’ve ridden so many waves in my life. I have been in a thousand paddle battles. I’ve had to fight for my waves, and maneuver my path, to place myself at the ocean. I’ve paid my dues.

            At different times in my life surfing was out of my reach ~ but, not anymore.

This picture hangs on the wall in Rozo’s workshop. It’s from a surf magazine.

He was my role model as a kid, and he is still my role model.

He is a focused and humble man.

This is Tommy, Rozo’s brother. He covers the shaped foam, with fiberglass. This guy is so fast. It was fascinating to watch him work. Continue reading !I Ride~a ROZO!

Where is Grandma?

 Grandmas Gone Surfing

Grandma’s Gone Surfing. What a great title for a blog!

The GGS Blog, was my initial inspiration. There are five years of posts, written by a woman, who was not a grandma, but a mother, who had started surfing at the age of forty three. She was a good writer, with the heart and soul, of a surfer. Her writing style was intriguing. You always wanted to know what happened next. Continue reading Where is Grandma?

Creating good days!

Creating good days today; creates good days, tomorrow. It makes happy yesterdays. Happiness and good days are key ingredients to longevity and well-being. How many times do you hear that idea tossed about?

Two evenings ago riding back from the surfbreak, Playa Avellanas, my friend and I got into a bit of a heated conversation about aging and surfing, competitiveness and illness. He kept talking and I kept talking back. My voice kept getting louder and louder. I was working hard to get my point across.

I have never bought into the widely accepted concept that illness is a part of the aging process. Forget it! Your beliefs are your strengths or weaknesses. Come to think of it, I never accepted the idea of plucking my eyebrows either. It just didn’t make sense, to stand in front of a mirror and inflict pain on myself.

That being said, before I left the States a month ago, I saw Piper Austin on a local news show. She had just won the Girls~East Coast Champion Title. Not bad Piper! She was asked, what advice she would give to a surfer, who wanted to improve. Her immediate response was yoga.

Cling to what makes sense.

Hence:

My new yoga teacher,

Yesterday, I started out my day with a sattva yoga class. I know that as the years pass, if I don’t do something, I will continue to loose my flexibility. Everyday is a good day, to do something good for yourself!

Later in the day, I was back at Playa Avellanas, catching waves.

Does this make sense to you?

WARNING: do not believe these three downtrodden, mistaken myths; that you will become sick as you age, that surfing is only for the young; that you had to start surfing when you were a kid.

Life is what you make it. Have a good day!

Namaste

Did I make myself clear?

Surfing-a chosen lifestyle

Last night, I surfed Playa Grande. That makes two sunset surfs, in a row. The clouds were a crimson red. It’s not about just catching waves. It’s about being in nature and being one with all things Holy.

I came here to live a slower life. To be able to catch waves and not have to surf desperate. I’ve  achieved both of those goals.

I feel fortunate, that I listened to that inner voice and gone against the grain. I believe, the universe has placed me where I am. I live on a small lot behind a big hotel, The Bahia Del Sol. Initially, here in CR, I owned a lot in the gated community, Rancho Playa Negra. But I soon found out that I didn’t belong there. I am a simple person.

I chose the name, La Huerta, for our abode, because it means orchard. I want to always be reminded that I am going to reap what I sow.

On the ride home, my friend and I discussed the waves and what goes on, in your head, when you’re in the water. Everybody’s different, though I think we’re also the same. Surfing is individual, but for the most part, you’re amongst other surfers of both genders, young and old. So, of course, there’s going to be varied perspectives. Some kids are out there wanting to be pros and they’re practicing every move. But for me, it’s a life style that I have chosen, and it might be for them as well. I can only guess what others are thinking.

I love it when I catch a wave.

But it will always be more than that.

Happy Surfer

This is a happy surfer. This is my oldest granddaughter.

This is a happy surfer, surfing.

A happy surfer and her Papa.

I woke up this morning thinking about my granddaughter. She has been here to visit me three times. These pictures are of her learning. She’s pretty capable in the lineup now, if she’s out there. She’s put her surfing on the back burner, but she can honestly say that she has surfed with Robert August. He dropped in on her once.

The first time I saw her take off on a head high wave, she was down the beach and I thought OMG, she’s never going to surf again. It looked like she was going to be late, and she was on my 9’6 Orion. A recipe for disaster. But she made it. She road it in straight, but all the way to the beach. Yes, she had the huge surfer smile.

Surfing can be a path to happiness.

A LITTLE BIT OLDER

A little bit older than the crowd, but I got my waves. It was a good day at Playa Avellanas. It started out with some wind on it, so the majority of the people left, the sun came out and it cleaned up. I love it when that happens. It has been a week since I have been in the water.

My guage of a good wave. When I realize I’m smiling from ear to ear. That’s why I surf.