A little bit older than the crowd, but I got my waves. It was a good day at Playa Avellanas. It started out with some wind on it, so the majority of the people left, the sun came out and it cleaned up. I love it when that happens. It has been a week since I had been in the water.
My guage of a good wave. When I realize I’m smiling from ear to ear. That’s why I surf.