Dare to Challenge the Illusion

What is your reality?

Do you live in love and kindness? Are you surrounded by people that care for you and support your endeavors?

If you are unhappy in your existence, can you change it?

Can you walk into the unknown?

Or are your feet, blocks of cement, and your mind a hamster wheel?

Be different – Dream Big

I have not been writing. I have been listening to talks by Dr. Joe Dispenza. What a gift! I have turned many corners, following my daughters passing. And I am now more committed than ever to live en-joy.

Now What

Life is not about never failing ~ but rising from every fall ~

I have been on the island, for 18 months. My daughter had cancer. A long fought battle to survive, ended two weeks ago. Life requires more than a will to live. She never did relinquish. Her body gave out.

She’s in my mind.

A friend wrote me a note saying; grief is pernicious.

I am going to clean my yard.


What part of normal is worth rushing back to?

All of my photos. All, of the waves, I’ve ridden. The numerous adventures that I have been on. They seem distant and unreal.

But right now, I have more important things to do.

I am huddled up and hunkered down, with my daughter and my husband. We are on an adventure of sorts. All time, is a happening. Moments and events to be remembered.

From past experiences, I know, that what I want to return to, is no longer there. Dreams are eroded, repeatedly. But that has never stopped me from creating more.

When your glass castle, becomes concrete. Sit on it. It will soon turn to illusion.

The Center

The Centercenter |ˈsentər| (Brit. centre

1 [ no obj. ] (center around/on or center something around/on) have or cause to have something as (a major concern or theme): the case centers around the couple’s adopted children | the plot centers on two young men | [ with obj. ] : he is centering his discussion on an analysis of patterns of mortality.
• (be centered in) (of an activity) occur mainly in or around (a specified place): the mercantile association was centered in northern Germany.
2 [ with obj. ] place in the middle: to center the needle, turn the knob.
• Football pass the ball back from the ground to another player to begin a down; snap.

I just finished watching the documentary of Joan Didion’s life ~ The Center Will Not Hold. Continue reading The Center

Walk Don’t Run Thru Costa Rica

IMG_1914mmWhat does a surfer or adventurer really need in Costa Rica?IMG_1851~ I was always more interested in the nature ~IMG_1854 ~ a simple cheap place to lay my head ~IMG_1919~ a nice place to drink my cafe con leche ~IMG_1867~ and a safe place to meditate ~

I once overheard a local, Fernandina Beach surfer, Eric Hatton say, “If you have a roof and a hose, you have living space in Costa Rica.” His words changed my life!

* Having spent a lot of time in Costa Rica, I know how important it is to have water running through the hose.

* It’s best to experience Costa Rica as cheap and as slow as you can.

*The sunsets are FREE!


King of the Peak

IMG_7542wpbBrady McKenzie/King of the Peak

Last night was the premier for the surf movie – King of the Peak. IMG_1148

Rick Chapman, Jessee Chapman, Bradley Dunham, Skyler DeBerry, Jarrod Kaylor and Zach Church

This event, the movie and the contest, was put on by our local East Coast Surfing Association. Rick is a talented surfer himself and invests much of his time, helping to provide a healthy environment for the local youth to compete. These guys are fierce competitors, in the water and friends on land. I know. Through my photography, I am a witness.IMG_1145

Rob and Melissa Ruy + kid in the next row.

I wish I had more pictures, for this post and for my archive. But my camera, the A495 Canon, which is a forty dollar camera, that cost me eighty in Costa Rica, is a piece of junk. Not because it’s a bad camera, but because I’ve dropped it so many times. It’s not what it use to be.

I find myself working with “what I have”.

But most importantly, I have a pictures of this evening, burnt in my brain. I can see their smiling faces. I can see them riding waves.

This morning, I’m sitting in Starbucks listening to jazz, Christmas tunes, and overhearing the few other regulars, talking about football.

Everyone behind the counter is someone I feel like I know.

I have been here in Fernandina since May. I have not spent a winter here, on the island, in twelve years.

In the last seven months, I have been surrounded by families. Good families. People that spend time with their children.

As a matter of fact, Brady, who won the title, King of the Peak, could hand his crown to his Dad.

I’m in a good spot here, for now.

I feel a part of ~so~ Take Me To The Beach ~ where the Sun is ~ my father and the Ocean my mother-I’m surrounded by sand and air and friends-and life has no end………………

Take Me To The Beach

Queen of the Peak

Me and My Hoodie
Me and My Hoodie

Ice Cream Sundayz

This is Rob Ruy, owner of the Pipeline Surfshop, here in Fernandina Beach, on Amelia Island, FL.

He puts a lot of energy into helping the local kids shine in both sports; surfing and skating.
The island is going to have some skating going on! Every Sunday in November, there’s a competition, called ICE CREAM SUNDAYZ. The skate park here is a haven for a lot of young, serious athletes. Shooting this sport is very different. But it’s exciting and fun, so I’ll be there.

Not all surfers are skaters, and visa versa, but I do see some dual participants.

Marco Pacheco, the Costa Rican guide in the Endless Summer, recently said~surfing is to skating like football is to baseball~I believe that to be an accurate appraisal.