Don’t wait. …
All of my photos. All, of the waves, I’ve ridden. The numerous adventures that I have been on. They seem distant and unreal.
But right now, I have more important things to do.
I am huddled up and hunkered down, with my daughter and my husband. We are on an adventure of sorts. All time, is a happening. Moments and events to be remembered.
From past experiences, I know, that what I want to return to, is no longer there. Dreams are eroded, repeatedly. But that has never stopped me from creating more.
When your glass castle, becomes concrete. Sit on it. It will soon turn to illusion.
center |ˈsentər| (Brit. centre
1 [ no obj. ] (center around/on or center something around/on) have or cause to have something as (a major concern or theme): the case centers around the couple’s adopted children | the plot centers on two young men | [ with obj. ] : he is centering his discussion on an analysis of patterns of mortality.
• (be centered in) (of an activity) occur mainly in or around (a specified place): the mercantile association was centered in northern Germany.
2 [ with obj. ] place in the middle: to center the needle, turn the knob.
• Football pass the ball back from the ground to another player to begin a down; snap.
I just finished watching the documentary of Joan Didion’s life ~ The Center Will Not Hold. Continue reading The Center
What does a surfer or adventurer really need in Costa Rica?~ I was always more interested in the nature ~ ~ a simple cheap place to lay my head ~~ a nice place to drink my cafe con leche ~~ and a safe place to meditate ~
I once overheard a local, Fernandina Beach surfer, Eric Hatton say, “If you have a roof and a hose, you have living space in Costa Rica.” His words changed my life!
* Having spent a lot of time in Costa Rica, I know how important it is to have water running through the hose.
* It’s best to experience Costa Rica as cheap and as slow as you can.
*The sunsets are FREE!
Besides being a surfer, David is a talented, on-the-hill, artist. You can see examples of his work on silverfish closet.com.
Last night was the premier for the surf movie – King of the Peak.
Rick Chapman, Jessee Chapman, Bradley Dunham, Skyler DeBerry, Jarrod Kaylor and Zach Church
This event, the movie and the contest, was put on by our local East Coast Surfing Association. Rick is a talented surfer himself and invests much of his time, helping to provide a healthy environment for the local youth to compete. These guys are fierce competitors, in the water and friends on land. I know. Through my photography, I am a witness.
Rob and Melissa Ruy + kid in the next row.
I wish I had more pictures, for this post and for my archive. But my camera, the A495 Canon, which is a forty dollar camera, that cost me eighty in Costa Rica, is a piece of junk. Not because it’s a bad camera, but because I’ve dropped it so many times. It’s not what it use to be.
I find myself working with “what I have”.
But most importantly, I have a pictures of this evening, burnt in my brain. I can see their smiling faces. I can see them riding waves.
This morning, I’m sitting in Starbucks listening to jazz, Christmas tunes, and overhearing the few other regulars, talking about football.
Everyone behind the counter is someone I feel like I know.
I have been here in Fernandina since May. I have not spent a winter here, on the island, in twelve years.
In the last seven months, I have been surrounded by families. Good families. People that spend time with their children.
As a matter of fact, Brady, who won the title, King of the Peak, could hand his crown to his Dad.
I’m in a good spot here, for now.
Take Me To The Beach
Queen of the Peak
He puts a lot of energy into helping the local kids shine in both sports; surfing and skating.
The island is going to have some skating going on! Every Sunday in November, there’s a competition, called ICE CREAM SUNDAYZ. The skate park here is a haven for a lot of young, serious athletes. Shooting this sport is very different. But it’s exciting and fun, so I’ll be there.
Not all surfers are skaters, and visa versa, but I do see some dual participants.
I swam laps in a tub of lard
I ran the race of neurosis
I won the trophy~
I worked out daily at thinking
Lifted weights of anger and fear
I cycled miles of confusion
I grazed on cold cans of BEER.
I had no fault in my losses
It was always somebody else
Who tripped me
or clipped me
or nipped me
Til I fell in the dust on my SELF.
I rose up and looked in the mirror
The problem~stared back at me
It was me all along singing that song
ME~ ME~ ME
I turned around in an instant
Though it didn’t seem so~at the time
I look back over what lays behind me
And decided to write you this rhyme.
When we’re in trouble physically, mentally and or spiritually, life can be very tough and overwhelming.
How do you eat an elephant?
One bite at a time.
Let it be known: I am aware, this poem has a sing song rhythm. However, I liked it, it’s my journal and I hope someone gets something good out of it.