We are born, to soon learn, that we are going to die.
I really don’t know about other people’s inner lives. Communication has a way of drifting. It’s ethereal. And yet, it’s can be heavy, as a tombstone. An albatross. A spirit of unrelenting fear. Or, it can be as equally uplifting as a hot air balloon. Raising you above, to elevate you, and present a wide angle view. A unique and exhilarating vista.
I have experienced both.
I am a part of humanity. I accept it. I surrender. I give in.
This surfer is Rubiana Brownell. I have had these images on my desk top for a few weeks. They are not the showiest pics, but they do demonstrate her surfing skills, and are indicative of her life skills. Those that a person would want to have, if they want to live their dream. Continue reading Live Your Dream
Last night I surfed Playa Grande. That makes two sunset surfs in a row. The clouds were a crimson red. It’s not about just catching waves. It’s about being in nature and being one with all things holy.
I came here to live a slower life. To be able to catch waves and not have to surf desperate. I’ve certainly achieved both of those goals.
I feel fortunate, that I’ve listened to that inner voice and gone against the grain. I believe, the universe has placed me where I am. I live on a small lot behind a big hotel, The Bahia Del Sol. Initially, here in CR, I owned a lot in the gated community, Rancho Playa Negra. But I soon found out that I didn’t belong there. I am a simple person.
I chose the name, La Huerta, for our abode, because it means orchard. I want to always be reminded that I am going to reap what I sow.
On the ride home, my friend and I discussed the waves and what goes on, in your head, when you’re in the water. Everybody’s different, though I think we’re also the same. Surfing is very individual, but for the most part, you’re amongst other people, other surfers of both genders, young and old. So, of course, there’s going to be varied perspectives. Some kids are out there wanting to be pros and they’re practicing every move. But for me, it’s a life style that I have chosen, and it might be for them as well. I can only guess what others are thinking.