Last night I surfed Playa Grande. That makes two sunset surfs in a row. The clouds were a crimson red. It’s not about just catching waves. It’s about being in nature and being one with all things holy.
I came here to live a slower life. To be able to catch waves and not have to surf desperate. I’ve certainly achieved both of those goals.
I feel fortunate, that I’ve listened to that inner voice and gone against the grain. I believe, the universe has placed me where I am. I live on a small lot behind a big hotel, The Bahia Del Sol. Initially, here in CR, I owned a lot in the gated community, Rancho Playa Negra. But I soon found out that I didn’t belong there. I am a simple person.
I chose the name, La Huerta, for our abode, because it means orchard. I want to always be reminded that I am going to reap what I sow.
On the ride home, my friend and I discussed the waves and what goes on, in your head, when you’re in the water. Everybody’s different, though I think we’re also the same. Surfing is very individual, but for the most part, you’re amongst other people, other surfers of both genders, young and old. So, of course, there’s going to be varied perspectives. Some kids are out there wanting to be pros and they’re practicing every move. But for me, it’s a life style that I have chosen, and it might be for them as well. I can only guess what others are thinking.
I love it when I catch a wave.
But it will always be more than that.