Yes, I made this entire wave.
Those who are better surfers on the island are charging dry barrels up the beach.
This shot was taken at the Fernandina Beach Pier, which is my favorite wave back home.
I sent this photo, along with a Bio to a Florida Women of the Waves Event
My Bio – Cheri Eagerton Royal
Every time I paddle out, I feel I’m baptized. I’m starting new. (You can quote me on this.) Continue reading Quote This
I’ve just read Samba to the Sea‘s post, which led me to Dirtbag Darling‘s musings. Both of these women are young blogger, surfer, travelers.
I thought to myself, I’m nobody’s darling. Never have been and never will be.
But good for them. They are darling.
I have dreams.
Yesterday, I surfed small waves at a river mouth. A young tico kid plowed his way through every inch of the lineup. He paddle battled with granny: some he won and some he lost. I remember when I use to be aggressive for waves. I just don’t have that in me any more. However. I am glad that I once did, or I would have never gotten a wave.
Now I dream of Mexico. A place where there are endless waves and no crowds. It’s just a matter of time. At my age, I can’t put these things off, too long.
No Coins
No coin-cidence-s
A Penny for your Thoughts
Are they worth that much?
It’s dark outside. I have the white, cotton curtain pulled back, so I will wake up when the sky begins to lighten. I’m laying in my single bed, under a yellow mosquito net. I can hear the churning of the ocean water. The fan drones on ~ right to left-right to left.
I can check this excursion off of my bucket list. I have been Surfing with Amigas.
I came here with no expectations. I have surfed and played in the ocean, like every person should. I took photos and talked and talked.
I always wanted to do something like this.
It’s been a very uptown, coastal jungle, surf experience.
It’s been a bit emotional. Women talk about their families a lot. Their parents and their children.
I miss my family.
All of that and five dollars, will buy me a cup of coffee.
photography………It can be re-done, edited, cropped, colored, manipulated…..as much as you choose.
Unfortunately, life can not be done over. I was looking through papers yesterday and I was reminded of the date when my life took a significant turn. I thought that I had hit a home run and the future looked super-bright. But that was not the case.
When these things happen, its best to focus on the good.
Focus~a photography term.
Photography helps me to maintain a good attitude~no matter what.
This photo is from Sandy ~ Day 5.
The surfer is Angela, a local, science teacher and life guard, who brought her South California surfing skills, to our humble island.
It’s a bit tragic, that what brought us these savory waves, has been devastating up the coast. Anyone that lives near the ocean knows the threat.
It’s wise to respect mother nature.
These ladies are great examples of young women surfing today. Fifteen years ago, you wouldn’t have seen this at Playa Negra. I know, I was there. There are more and more women in the water, and their abilities have no limits. Women’s surfing is not what it use to be, and it’s not what it’s going to be.
I just ran across a not, too old article, in Surfing Magazine. The shocking photo, for the article, is of a woman, with dirty feet, wearing a lot of make up and curls, maybe nude, maybe not, in a trash can. It mimics the cover of an Esquire magazine.
The title of the article is The New Woman Surfer Through at 21. It was written by Stuart Cornuelle. I checked out his articles and he doesn’t seem like a woman-hater.
I know that the surfing industry has been slow to change. It’s all age-old BS. Stuart’s view of women’s professional surfing is, that he’s reminded of the cruel, Hollywood of old. There’s only a place for the young women. Young, being 21 and under.
I don’t think so.
His perspective seems a bit shortsighted. Or maybe he’s just young and therefore naïve.
I’ve surfed longer than most surfers have been alive, and I’ve gotta tell you, or warn you, whichever; things are changing and they’re changing fast.
He asked women, what are they going to do, to change their current status? I have to laugh. My answer is, “They already have.”
Fish Eye Farm 