Yes, I made this entire wave.
Those who are better surfers on the island are charging dry barrels up the beach.
This shot was taken at the Fernandina Beach Pier, which is my favorite wave back home.
I sent this photo, along with a Bio to a Florida Women of the Waves Event
My Bio – Cheri Eagerton Royal
Every time I paddle out, I feel I’m baptized. I’m starting new. (You can quote me on this.)
In 1966 my mother bought a beach house and the following summer, with no forewarning, my father brought home a 9’6 Rick nose rider.
It was not a time when girls surfed, but I wasn’t going to let that stop me. I couldn’t let it stop me. I was sucked into an oceanic vortex, from my first surf encounter.
I had great summers on Fernandina Beach. Making friends, catching white water waves and skim boarding. The days seemed like forever. I caught my first green wave at fourteen. There were no instructors, or even anyone to tell me what to do. My forty pound board was my best friend. But that didn’t keep it from knocking me upside my head.
Looking back I can’t believe I endured that. But I wouldn’t give up.
I began surfing fifty years ago, but marriage and family kidnapped me into land lock years.
I went to school as an adult and earned a Bachelor Degree in Fine Art. I couldn’t even look at the beach in those years. I felt if I did, I would repeat of my high school years,when I would not go. I would get in my car and head straight to the beach, waves or no waves.
At forty, I decided this is it! I want to surf, it’s what I love and it’s what I’m going to do. I bought a wet suit for the first time and began surfing like a kid again.
I divide my time between Fernandina Beach, Florida – my home break there is the pier. And Playa Avellanas, Costa Rica, where I catch waves in front of Lola’s Beach Bar.
For the last eighteen years, I have SURFED. I might not be the best surfer, but I’m out there.
Today, I enjoy seeing the young women in the waves.
I’m grateful for the opportunity to work with kids at surf camp and people who have crossed my life’s path.
It’s all about giving back.
One way I do that is through my surf photography. With the help of my Canon, I have evolved into Secondhand Surfer. I never miss the chance to document women’s surfing.
I live to surf and surf to live.
I might be missing the boat that others are on ~ but they’re missing the boat that I am on.
I once heard in a documentary, the voice of J. Paul Getty. He said that he had never been happy in his life, except when he was a young boy and surfed in California.
Need I say more……….See you on the beach!
This is what they used as my quote – For the last eighteen years, I have SURFED. I might not be the best surfer, but I’m out there. – no caps on SURFED. Out of context.
What a weenie quote….
Here’s a quote for you…”if you drop in on me, I’m going to put this board up your ass.”
Sorry y’all but I feel like I just missed a wave.
6 thoughts on “Quote This”
nice reflections, I am in a land locked phase right now but someday I will return to my chosen life in the waves and jungle. it will be my sincere hope to paddle out again with my friends-much love Jeffrey
I’m counting the minutes and the waves – land locked sucks! You’re in my prayers – amigo
Thank you – It’s been a bumpy ride – but I’m not complaining…I equate it all to rodeo riding..
‘Every time I paddle out, I feel I’m baptized. I’m starting new’.
And that’s such a good feeling – I always want to go back for more.