Yes, I made this entire wave.
Those who are better surfers on the island are charging dry barrels up the beach.
This shot was taken at the Fernandina Beach Pier, which is my favorite wave back home.
I sent this photo, along with a Bio to a Florida Women of the Waves Event
My Bio – Cheri Eagerton Royal
Every time I paddle out, I feel I’m baptized. I’m starting new. (You can quote me on this.) Continue reading Quote This
Abraham and Roy are “road tripping”. They are the proprietors of a unique, very modern, sometimes~in the jungle~business. Mar Rojo is a traveling, trendy, boutique. This novel concept, their venture, is a hit here in Costa Rica.
Above is a photo, by Byron Zuniga, from the Facebook page, Mar Rojo, taken at Playa Coco.
I encountered these mad men of fashion, at the entrance of Lola’s. I stepped off a dusty trail, on a remote beach, into a menagerie of colorful attire. I could have been on any city sidewalk. Continue reading Mar Rojo
If you travel to Costa Rica, down a red clay road, to the remote, outpost Avellanas, you will find a fine dining restaurant, where this man is one of the waiters. You will be greeted with a luminous smile and a genuine “pura vida“.
Needless to say his family is the same.
Natalia is another surfing mama.
What a beautiful life. What a beautiful family.
*None of the photos are mine. The restaurant is the famous, Lola’s.
A little bit older than the crowd, but I got my waves. It was a good day at Playa Avellanas. It started out with some wind on it, so the majority of the people left, the sun came out and it cleaned up. I love it when that happens. It has been a week since I had been in the water.
My guage of a good wave. When I realize I’m smiling from ear to ear. That’s why I surf.