I took this photo yesterday. It was our first summer day. Maybe not on the calendar, but all the elements created sunshine and glassy waves. I could hear Beach Boys’ music playing.
Chris Igou is a stand out surfer, and I have many pics of him, but this particular move was exciting to watch. Being behind the lens and following the surfer is a thrill that I hadn’t expected. I’m very fortunate to be a surf photographer; the local documenter of the Fernandina Beach, surf community.
Secondhand Surfer Blog is my journal and it helps me stay grounded.
I’ve been journaling since 1994(?). When first traveling to Costa Rica, I would keep track of my costs. I can look up what a liter of gas and the price of an egg breakfast was in 1996. I can tell you about people that I met, complimented by pictures. Continue reading “Troubleshooting Life”
Yesterday, I surfed at Playa Avellanes. I did two unusual things. I took my shorter board, a 7’6 fun board, and a kid with a boogie board. The board is one I use to ride, before I changed to 9′, 9’6 and now 10′ boards. It’s nice to know that I can still ride it if I want to.
The boogie boarder is our caretakers son, who has always lived here on our place, La Huerta. My husband and I taught him to swim. He’s a natural in the water. He swims like a fish. He’s my husband’s shadow.
Today, I will not surf. I will take my camera and go check out Playa Grande. It should be good. There’s not much swell here, now, but Grande attracts young rippers, who shred the beach breaks.
The point of this is, there’s a natural flow in life, that slows one down.
I’m in a stage of giving back.
But I always envisioned, that I would surf, for the rest of my life.
God + Service to Others = What I want to do, with my life.
I’m exactly where I’m suppose to be.
February 17th, 2013. As the days go by, I drift.
I wonder how did I get here? But I know how. It was the tide. That’s how life works; like the rhythms of the sea.
Were you ever taught what to do if you’re stranded in the water? You’re advised to FLOAT. Otherwise, you will expend your energy and you will soon begin to sink.
I’ve had times in my life, when I thought I was sailing along and everything was grand. Then out of nowhere, I encountered a gail force wind; or, I felt a hand push me overboard and I found myself having to swim to shore, AGAIN.
My life is not what I thought it would be. I’m older. Older than I use to be.
So today, I’m going to float.
I’m not going to fight the current of my family, or the undertow of Costa Rica.
Secondhand Surfer both the blog and the page are my raft. And we’re going to bob into a aesthetic existence.
Fueled by the breath of the Holy Spirit.
I don’t want to drown.
I’m home again. I’ve returned from a four-day, road trip; first to San Jose, the capital of Costa Rica and then Parrita, a small coastal town, south of Jaco. I allow myself to sink, in the comfort of my little house again; back to my coffee pot, air conditioner and Big Bang.
The trip to town was brought about, by my need to see the dermatologist. I got a good report from the Doc. That was a relief. Then we were out and about town, visiting friends and mostly traveling in cabs. We did take the bus line one time. Traffic is so anti-systematic here. Cars dive for space; seemingly each driver is anticipating the other’s move, and it’s on! I’d much rather sit back and let a cab drive wreck his car, than take a chance on our rental. Continue reading “Home Again”
It is a good morning. It’s ten til four. I keep waking up, so I decided to rise and write. The reason for my restlessness is a trip I’m taking. I’m going to San Jose, the capital of Costa Rica. It’s where one has to go for anything important. In my case, the doctor.
On a bike ride, a while back, water splashed on my leg, and I suspect a parasite has now taken residence under my skin. Yuk! You never know what’s going to happen here in the wild. So, off to civilization.
It’s a four-hour drive, that can be maddening. We, my husband and myself, will be crossing narrow, winding, mountain roads, behind big trucks, aging, loud tractor trailers, smoking trucks, old farm vehicles on their last leg and slow-moving cars. All the while, dodging occasional cows and meandering pedestrians. Not to mention, simultaneously being passed, by insane little cars that don’t slow down for anything. Double yellow lines are meaningless to them, as well as oncoming traffic. They don’t put this in the travel brochures.
I am carrying my board, as I am going to take this opportunity for a surf trip down south. I’ll have my camera in tow.
During this hiatus from photos on my blog, I have taken a lot of pictures.
Some are good, some aren’t.
My camera is far smarter than I am, but I would like to be more in control. I am very inspired by other photographers.
I wish I had a witty story to tell this morning, but hey, it’s four o’clock.
And all is well.
As a master, I am at peace within myself and with the world outside of me.
You qualify as a master ~ when you live with an active substance abuser ~ and you can maintain peace and serenity, in your life.
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