Yesterday, I surfed at Playa Avellanes. I did two unusual things. I took my shorter board, a 7’6 fun board, and a kid with a boogie board. The board is one I use to ride, before I changed to 9′, 9’6 and now 10′ boards. It’s nice to know that I can still ride it if I want to.
The boogie boarder is our caretakers son, who has always lived here on our place, La Huerta. My husband and I taught him to swim. He’s a natural in the water. He swims like a fish. He’s my husband’s shadow.
Today, I will not surf. I will take my camera and go check out Playa Grande. It should be good. There’s not much swell here, now, but Grande attracts young rippers, who shred the beach breaks.
The point of this is, there’s a natural flow in life, that slows one down.
I’m in a stage of giving back.
I never dreamed I would be behind a camera lens when there was ANY wave breaking. I never thought I would be caring for a Nicaraguan youth, like a grandson.
But I always envisioned, that I would surf, for the rest of my life.
God + Service to Others = What I want to do, with my life.
I’m exactly where I’m suppose to be.
Last night I surfed Playa Grande. That makes two sunset surfs in a row. The clouds were a crimson red. It’s not about just catching waves. It’s about being in nature and being one with all things holy.
I came here to live a slower life. To be able to catch waves and not have to surf desperate. I’ve certainly achieved both of those goals.
I feel fortunate, that I’ve listened to that inner voice and gone against the grain. I believe, the universe has placed me where I am. I live on a small lot behind a big hotel, The Bahia Del Sol. Initially, here in CR, I owned a lot in the gated community, Rancho Playa Negra. But I soon found out that I didn’t belong there. I am a simple person.
I chose the name, La Huerta, for our abode, because it means orchard. I want to always be reminded that I am going to reap what I sow.
On the ride home, my friend and I discussed the waves and what goes on, in your head, when you’re in the water. Everybody’s different, though I think we’re also the same. Surfing is very individual, but for the most part, you’re amongst other people, other surfers of both genders, young and old. So, of course, there’s going to be varied perspectives. Some kids are out there wanting to be pros and they’re practicing every move. But for me, it’s a life style that I have chosen, and it might be for them as well. I can only guess what others are thinking.
I love it when I catch a wave.
But it will always be more than that.