I have dreams.
Yesterday, I surfed small waves at a river mouth. A young tico kid plowed his way through every inch of the lineup. He paddle battled with granny: some he won and some he lost. I remember when I use to be aggressive for waves. I just don’t have that in me any more. However. I am glad that I once did, or I would have never gotten a wave.
Now I dream of Mexico. A place where there are endless waves and no crowds. It’s just a matter of time. At my age, I can’t put these things off, too long.