This is the face of a happy surfer. This is my oldest granddaughter.
This is the face of a happy surfer, surfing.
This is the face of a happy surfer and her Papa.
I woke up this morning thinking about my granddaughter. She has been here to visit me three times. These pictures are of her learning. She’s pretty capable in the lineup now, if she’s out there. She’s put her surfing on the back burner, but she can honestly say that she has surfed with Robert August. He dropped in on her once.
The first time I saw her take off on a head high wave, she was down the beach and I thought OMG, she’s never going to surf again. It looked like she was going to be late, and she was on my 9’6 Orion, in the picture. It looked like a recipe for disaster. But she made it. She road it in straight, but all the way to the beach. Yes, she had the huge surfer smile.
Surfing can be a path to happiness.