Tag: Amelia Island

Man vs. Nature

I have been hesitant to write this post.

However, my thoughts concerning this issue has been alight, in my head, long enough.

There has been no anger involved, no brickbats, hostility or antagonism. It’s been a process of thinking, and reflection. I’ve experienced a twinge of sadness, that I have learned to soothe, knowing it will all make me money, in the long run. I rationalize like that.

That’s part of how I have come to deal with progress. The encroachment of man on nature. It’s inevitable.

However, the part of this scenario that continually gets my goat, is how people feign concern for the environment, through useless laws. The ceaseless posturing of politicians, to save the turtles.

Mother nature will save the turtles.

Because one day, she will have had enough. Continue reading Man vs. Nature

Sam’s Corner

IMG_5743Yesterday, I met Sam. I was out with my camera looking for surfers to photograph. We had about a 15 mph wind, blowing out of the east. That is not ideal for waves here, but bad conditions don’t stop local surfers. It’s called wind chop, and the dedicated, will venture out and catch wave after wave. It’s all about the stoke. That’s one of the reasons Florida surfers are such epic wave riders.  The conditions go from flat, to windy, to thick fast slabs, that dump over a foot of sand. There’s not a lot of in between. A Florida surfer need not be transplanted to be a great athlete, but often, if moved from their circumstances, to the GOOD waves of the Pacific, well, the name Kelly Slater says it all.

Sam lives on my old block.

IMG_5744I thought that I would live there forever.

But people kept moving to the island and the lifestyle change was too much for me. I could no longer fish in front of my house. It seemed like there was a new sign and a new law, everyday. Those condos were built behind me and my view of the dunes and trees, twisted by years of hurricanes were gone forever. It shocked me.

I ran to Costa Rica.

IMG_5738

Sam’s out catching waves, unencumbered by the past.IMG_5705IMG_5708IMG_5718All of this looks normal to him.

IMG_5719As I sat in the sun with my camera and watched him paddle, catching wave after wave, I felt very content.

Meeting him has helped to shift, that last bit of perception, enabling me to let go.

IMG_5745Yesterday, I saw through his eyes.

Sam’s Corner.

Run To Nature

945295_524777614224868_619996552_nYoga on a Stand Up Paddle Board

How cool is that? When I left Costa Rica a few months back, people had begun utilizing this new style of yoga. Thanks to Rob and Melissa Ruy, Fernandina Beach is being kept in the loop. They are the owners of Pipeline Surf Shop.

Melissa recently travelled to Hawaii and studied these innovative health techniques, with Gerry Lopez, the zen surfer of all time. And now she has brought it home to us.

As a surfer, I have always been drawn to surf shops. Or I should say some surf shops have drawn me in. First you walk in to find a new board or board shorts, and the next thing you know you’re part of a community. One that’s filled with stoke and people who care. It’s an extended family.

Running to nature, has always been a solution for me. I can sit in the ocean, on my board, and meditate. Or, I can hike our Greenway, and be entertained by the animals and birds that I see and hear. Being in nature, gives me the feeling of presence.

So, when I saw these photos on Pipeline’s Facebook Page, I immediately knew where it was. I have sat on the bank, in that exact spot, and watched the sunset many days in my life. I have fought with and caught red bass right there.

We are fortunate, now that we have to share this space with so many, that people like Rob and Melissa have shown up. People that add to the magic of the island.

I seek peace and serenity in my life.

And now, I have friends that I can run to nature with.

I have a deep sense of gratitude + it just doesn’t get any better than that.

Hitchhike to California

IMG_7617meThis photo was taken by John Lyman, at my favorite surf break, in Costa Rica. Of all the years I’ve surfed, and all the waves I’ve ridden, I have very few pictures. I have been on waves way bigger than this one. They are burnt in my brain forever. The battle to take the wave, falling over the ledge, and the drama of hanging on, is part of my senses.

A captured moment, such as this, can pull the memory trigger on not just one wave, but dozens.

I’m fortunate I have this image at all. I had to pay to get it.

I am not a ripper. My claim to fame, use to be, that I would charge waves that women were not on. But that’s history; something way in the past. For one, I’m not aggressive for bigger waves and two, the line-up can be filled with women.

I still sit out and wait on the set waves. I always like it when I get the wave of the day. But more and more, as my boards get longer and longer, I try to style it, on small waves. They make me laugh.

Each and every wave has a life of its own.

Every surfer is photo worthy.

As a photographer, I spend my time, working to capture the best of a surfer’s abilities. It takes time, patience, and sometimes giving up shots of the better and best surfers. I ply my trade on the beaches of Amelia Island.

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That and five dollars will get me a cup of coffee at Starbucks.

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If you’re hitchhiking to California, and you put your thumb out, then no one gives you a ride ~  If you stop walking you will never get there.

I don’t want to stop my photography, no matter what!

Daily Inventory

IMG_7482shsSomeone, somewhere would enjoy this picture. Because it’s them! This photo is yet another from Hurricane Sandy. I know Sandy caused horrific destruction on the northern coast, but it generated a few days of great surf here, on Amelia Island.

This particular wave, like many that I took, was shot early in the morning, into our Eastern sun rise.

Secondhand Surfer now has a Facebook page and this is my photo entry for the day.

I plan to post one a day this year.

H.S – (Hurricane Sandy)

The H.S. is for Hurricane Sandy. Ryan Hammers is the surfer.

I ran into Ryan and his friend.  Visiting surfers from Jacksonville Beach, Big Saturday. They were two of the few people, here on the Island, that ventured out into the waves, that morning.

I got to show Ryan the pictures on the camera screen and he was smiling. Surfing is such a rush. You experience it and then it’s gone. I’m glad I happened to be there, and capture that barrel.

In my photography, now, I can bring some joy to others, by sharing my time and my talent. It helps me to connect with people and challenges me on many levels.

My life is blessed.

Ice Cream Sundayz

This is Rob Ruy, owner of the Pipeline Surfshop, here in Fernandina Beach, on Amelia Island, FL.

He puts a lot of energy into helping the local kids shine in both sports; surfing and skating.
The island is going to have some skating going on! Every Sunday in November, there’s a competition, called ICE CREAM SUNDAYZ. The skate park here is a haven for a lot of young, serious athletes. Shooting this sport is very different. But it’s exciting and fun, so I’ll be there.

Not all surfers are skaters, and visa versa, but I do see some dual participants.

Marco Pacheco, the Costa Rican guide in the Endless Summer, recently said~surfing is to skating like football is to baseball~I believe that to be an accurate appraisal.

*I am not so sure about that.

Personal Favorites-3

Sean Poynter
Kevin LearyEric Hatton

Sean again.

Brad Longboarder

Hometown surfers ~ Fernandina Beach, Florida,

Personal Favorite -1

 

My favorite photo from yesterday’s surf session on Amelia Island.

One day  I’ll be in the water with my camera.

Committed

I started this blog to learn more about my computer and my camera. (and myself) So far, so good.

 

Over 55

I’m sitting on a porch in Bradenton, in an over 55 community. It’s sunny and peaceful. It’s just too darn cold on the island, right now. I know! I know! It’s whatever degree up North, but I personally could care less how cold it is up north. Everything is relative and I’m a southerner and when it comes to certain things, like the weather, it’s about ME. OK?

I guess it’s the same for age too. When you’re younger, it might be difficult to recognize the intricacies of this trailer park. It’s been here for about fifty years and the trailers are OLD. But they are all kept up and added on too. It’s colorful and artistic. I wish some folks up in NE Florida would take the hint.

Resting on the porch this morning, I have had a chance to upload surf pictures to my Facebook page. I really enjoyed it.

Here are some of the pics:

Looking at these pics, I am impressed. This spot is tricky. The waves jack up and break over shallow water. I wouldn’t want to surf it. People who don’t surf, don’t really understand the difference of beach breaks, point breaks, ground swells and wind swells, wind direction, cold fronts, low pressures, reefs, where the waves originate, what it takes for them to break, peaks, short boards and long boards. And who is Kelly Slater? According to Lance Armstrong, he’s the world’s greatest athlete. I don’t really have the time to explain all of this important information. I don’t really know all that much anyway.

You only have so much time in life to learn what you want to know.  And the more you know, the more you know that you don’t know.

None of us have a crystal ball to tell the future, but it’s predictable that if you don’t die, you will get older. And you don’t know what older really is til you get there. So no matter where you are on the continuum of life, be in the now.

Don’t worry and be happy.