This morning was San Onofre special. Our friend, Glenn, surfs there EVERYDAY! Do these people know how lucky they are? Ron, with the surf van and the friendly dog, has been surfing this break since 1958. I told him I’d been trying to get there, since 1958. Really, more like 68′, but it did get a laugh.
It was definitely bucket list, to stand on that beach. I could feel it.
They don’t call this beach, Old Man’s, for nothing. It’s Old Man’s and Old School. It’s difficult to appreciate that until you’ve lived and surfed a long time. I’ve surfed a lot of beaches in the western hemisphere that surfers want to travel to. But this place was more.
These folks get up and surf before work, hang out at the fire and they’ve been doing it for years.
Rachel, was a stand out, walking to the nose every ride.
Tomorrow, we’re all planning to catch waves.
I can’t come this far and not surf! That water looks COLD!