It won’t be long and I’ll be headed back to the East Coast. I followed my friend to his break, San Onofre, and settled in to take pics. The waves were small, but the sun had come out. These waves are long and it gives a person a chance, to set up and walk around. These women are regulars and practiced. I enjoyed watching and shooting.
I don’t look forward to the flight.
I have done so much in the last week. I’ve visited bad old haunts and good old friends.
It’s been great.
California Bucket List
Looking for a board? This is the Stewart Surf Shop in San Clemente, CA. I surfed this morning at San Onofre~ spent a lot of time standing around the fire, watching and BS-ing with my friend Karen. I easily acclimate to this lifestyle ~ pronto. I’ve been in training, for a life time.
After surfing, we cruised the Pacific Coast Highway and up to Santa Monica.
I an going to surf Hunington Beach Pier tomorrow.
Oh well, somebody’s gotta do it!
This morning was San Onofre special. Our friend, Glenn, surfs there EVERYDAY! Do these people know how lucky they are? Ron, with the surf van and the friendly dog, has been surfing this break since 1958. I told him I’d been trying to get there, since 1958. Really, more like 68′, but it did get a laugh.
It was definitely bucket list, to stand on that beach. I could feel it.
They don’t call this beach, Old Man’s, for nothing. It’s Old Man’s and Old School. It’s difficult to appreciate that until you’ve lived and surfed a long time. I’ve surfed a lot of beaches in the western hemisphere that surfers want to travel to. But this place was more.
These folks get up and surf before work, hang out at the fire and they’ve been doing it for years.
Rachel, was a stand out, walking to the nose every ride.
Tomorrow, we’re all planning to catch waves.
I can’t come this far and not surf! That water looks COLD!