Four of us ventured out to the beach, three carrying rod and reel, one a swimmer. All day, I had waited for this. First, we deposited our shoes at the hotel, fence corner. You must always wear shoes that are so ugly and cheap, no one will steal them. Then we began walking and casting. We were passed by a group of tico youths, chasing the birds and a large school of fish below them. They were laughing and tossing their lures. One fish was caught, as they continued to run. Continue reading Keeping it Tico
They said to Him, “We have here only five loaves and two fish.” And He said, “Bring them here to Me.” Ordering the people to sit down on the grass, He took the five loaves and the two fish, and looking up toward heaven, He blessed the food, and breaking the loaves He gave them to the disciples, and the disciples gave them to the crowds.
They all ate and were satisfied. They picked up what was left over of the broken pieces, twelve full baskets. There were about five thousand men who ate, besides women and children.
Christmas can be a difficult holiday, for many. I use to be one of those. At one time, I experienced extreme depression on what was supposed to be the most joyful day of the year.
I, with help ~ from people ~ learned to turn all of that around.
Focus on what you have, not on what you don’t have.
Secondhand Surfer is my personal journal. It has been a life saver this year. 2012 is coming to a close and I’m already looking forward to making my blog better next year. I’d like to think that I have been successful this year, in all that I’ve learned and published: all the pictures I’ve taken and edited, all the people I’ve met, waves I’ve caught and places I’ve traveled to.
First, I want to tell you, that two mornings ago, my friend Jeffro and I, did a dawn patrol. We surfed alone, for probably thirty minutes. I have not experienced this here, in years. It was awesome; the waves, the water, the sky, the coastline and no people to distract my focus. It was glassy, with an offshore wind.
My husband and I, used to surf, Playa Avellanas, by ourselves, quite a bit. I’ll never forget the day, we paddled out, at the river mouth, and I paddled right in to the first wave, of a clean up set. It had to be ten feet. I don’t expect that to ever happen again. I didn’t have time to think. I just went. And there was not one person out there for me to worry about hitting. In recent years, I’ve paddled and backed out of more than one wave; because there were a line of surfers, at the bottom of the wave, looking up at me. For years, we enjoyed surfing with an average of twelve people in the water, in front of Lola’s, a local restaurant, which used to be Freddie’s. We had many days with two or three other people at the river mouth.
I am so grateful for all of those days, in the water, with few people. Those were the days. And the older I get, the more I know, these are the “good ole days”. That kind of attitude goes a long way when your session is “invaded” by fifty people. That’s what happened two days ago. But I was happy. I got my waves and I got out. It was a great morning. Continue reading Surfing, Misplaced Christmas and a Weird New Year