Yes, I made this entire wave.
Those who are better surfers on the island are charging dry barrels up the beach.
This shot was taken at the Fernandina Beach Pier, which is my favorite wave back home.
I sent this photo, along with a Bio to a Florida Women of the Waves Event
My Bio – Cheri Eagerton Royal
Every time I paddle out, I feel I’m baptized. I’m starting new. (You can quote me on this.) Continue reading Quote This
What ever you do ~ don’t say the paper mill stinks! Don’t say the water is polluted! Hold it in – Hold your nose! Continue reading Friends and Foes of Dirty Dina
The most elementary definition of ideology is probably the well-known phrase from Marx’s Capital: “Sie wissen das nicht, aber sie tun es” (“they do not know it, but they are doing it”). The very concept of ideology implies a kind of basic, constitutive naïveté: the misrecognition of its own presuppositions, of its own effective conditions, a distance, a divergence between so-called social reality and our distorted representation, our false consciousness of it. That is why such a ‘naive consciousness’ can be submitted to a critical-ideological procedure. The aim of this procedure is to lead the naïve ideological consciousness to a point at which it can recognize its own effective conditions, the social reality that it is distorting, and through this very act dissolve itself. In the more sophisticated versions of the critics of ideology -that developed by the Frankfurt School, for example — it is not just a question of seeing things (that is, social reality) as they ‘really are’, of throwing away the distorting spectacles of ideology; the main point is to see how the reality itself cannot reproduce itself without this so-called ideological mystification. The mask is not simply hiding the real state of things; the ideological distortion is written into its very essence. – Slavoj Zizek Continue reading Enlightened False Consciousness-Reality?
This is a pic, I took a while back, on the Island (Amelia Island, Florida), which use to be known as Fernandina Beach, until the Amelia Island Plantation was developed on the south end. Such is real estate; sales and marketing. It’s all important, WHO you are, and WHERE you’re from. Location, Location, Location.
Sean Poynter grew up there surfing, and has gone on to be one of world’s best SUP surfer. Last summer, he told me what had transpired in his life, altering his surfing path to the SUP. I thought, what a smart man. What a nice guy. And that’s what I think of him, today. He is an incredible, over the top, athlete. I admire Sean.
Today I made a remark on my photography page, concerning him calling his hometown, a California beach community. It was an editorial comment and one I thought was interesting. I was blasted by a few people. It seems they took it as I said—-I don’t even know what they thought, but it was obvious I had hit an exposed nerve. Such is social media.
I think I’ll leave all editorial comments alone. I don’t want an opinion. I just want to take my photos.
Surfing, where my home break is, in a foreign country, I often get asked by tourists, “where are you from”? It’s a common, everyday question, like little kids asking, “what’s your name”? Sometimes, it’s one of those identity, snide whips, like teenagers wanting to know, “who’s your Daddy?”
I rarely answer the Westside of Jacksonville, Florida. It’s fame hinges on a statistic: it’s known as a dumping ground, for dead bodies and the southern rock band, Lynard Skynard.
But hey, who gives a ____. I’m just a lowly kook, trying to get a life.
I felt shock and dread last night, as I passed this dead deer on Atlantic Avenue. It had been hit by a car. It’s sad, however, it’s something that happens when nature meets development.
Deers don’t travel far from where they are born. I’ve been told, that they will live their life, within a one mile radius. I’m not sure if that’s correct. I’m not an animal expert. And I couldn’t tell you which side of the street that she lived on. I didn’t witness the collision. I don’t know who her survivors are. All I know is, there is one less beautiful deer walking the woods. Continue reading Tragedy Strikes!