Tag: surfing

4 Gage

 GROM POWER

I surfed this morning at the Fernandina Beach Pier. I had all I could take. I came home threw my camera in the car and headed to the North end of the beach. I stumbled on to an East Coast Surfing contest. I had a good time taking photos.

When this grom took off I knew it was going to be good. Good wave Gage.

I will be busy editing and I will post my other photos soon.

Today’s the Day

Me and this kid have a lot in common. We’re dreaming! I want to go surfing. I started this blog, writing about surfing. I was in Costa Rica, but have since been exiled to Florida. It has been too cold for me to bother. However, yesterday the sun was out and I saw a bit of a swell ! It’s two to three feet and I am excited. I can taste it. I can’t wait. I’m living out in the woods and it’s thirty minutes from the break. I have to go to town for other reasons and my board is going with me.

If I get to surf today, I am going to be reborn~again. I guess, deep down, surfing is my religion.

I’m off to see the Surf Wizard. Let’s see what happens!

Over 55

I’m sitting on a porch in Bradenton, in an over 55 community. It’s sunny and peaceful. It’s just too darn cold on the island, right now. I know! I know! It’s whatever degree up North, but I personally could care less how cold it is up north. Everything is relative and I’m a southerner and when it comes to certain things, like the weather, it’s about ME. OK?

I guess it’s the same for age too. When you’re younger, it might be difficult to recognize the intricacies of this trailer park. It’s been here for about fifty years and the trailers are OLD. But they are all kept up and added on too. It’s colorful and artistic. I wish some folks up in NE Florida would take the hint.

Resting on the porch this morning, I have had a chance to upload surf pictures to my Facebook page. I really enjoyed it.

Here are some of the pics:

Looking at these pics, I am impressed. This spot is tricky. The waves jack up and break over shallow water. I wouldn’t want to surf it. People who don’t surf, don’t really understand the difference of beach breaks, point breaks, ground swells and wind swells, wind direction, cold fronts, low pressures, reefs, where the waves originate, what it takes for them to break, peaks, short boards and long boards. And who is Kelly Slater? According to Lance Armstrong, he’s the world’s greatest athlete. I don’t really have the time to explain all of this important information. I don’t really know all that much anyway.

You only have so much time in life to learn what you want to know.  And the more you know, the more you know that you don’t know.

None of us have a crystal ball to tell the future, but it’s predictable that if you don’t die, you will get older. And you don’t know what older really is til you get there. So no matter where you are on the continuum of life, be in the now.

Don’t worry and be happy.

Tyler

Here’s Tyler~

This is one of about a dozen pictures that I got of him.

I’m working out of my car and am experiencing technical difficulties.

So, once again, signing out from Staples.

pura vida

Tick tock~time talk

My blog is approaching 1000 views. At the last peep it was 991, and the clock ticks. I created this blog, as a learning tool.

As you can tell from the nature of my post that surfing is an important aspect of my life. At one time, because of my love for the beach, sitting in the sun and swimming and surfing, I found it hard to get to school or do anything else. I found myself, not where I wanted to be. Time was getting away from me.

I’ve always been an artist, but I really wanted to be better. I went to the local, junior college and took a drawing class. After that class, I was awarded a half time, talent grant and went to school for four years on scholarship. I always took one art class and one academic class. You don’t HAVE to go to college to get ahead, but it sure does help.

If my life’s path had not turned in this direction I can’t imagine where I would be.

I learned to start things and finish things. I learned to use my time well.

These are a few drawings that I did very quickly to prove my art abilities, to someone here in Potrero. She thought I was lying about my academic credentials. I can’t say as I blame her. Lying is a favorite pastime of gringos in Costa Rica.

Anyway, I have a lot of time on my hands here, sometimes. We do not expect to have waves until next Friday.

I have created new goals for myself on my blog. I would like to create a better home page. Who am I?

Once I have done that to my satisfaction, I’m going to create a Facebook page for the Secondhand surfer.

I live my life one day at a time, one wave at a time, and now, one post at a time.

Why not, that’s all you can do, the same as, you can’t drive two cars at one time!

And the clock ticks, tick tock, time talk.


Surfing, Misplaced Christmas and a Weird New Year

First, I want to tell you, that two mornings ago, my friend Jeffro and I did a dawn patrol. We surfed alone, for probably thirty minutes. I have not experienced this in years.  It was awesome; the waves, the water, the sky, the coastline and no people to distract my focus. It was glassy, with an offshore wind.

My husband and I, used to surf, Playa Avellanas, by ourselves, quite a bit. I’ll never forget the day, we paddled out, at the river mouth, and I paddled right in to the first wave, of a clean up set. It had to be ten feet. I don’t expect that to ever happen again. I didn’t have time to think. I just went. And there was not one person out there for me to worry about hitting. In recent years, I’ve paddled and backed out of more than one wave; because there were a line of surfers, at the bottom of the wave, looking up at me. For years, we enjoyed surfing with an average of  twelve people in the water, in front of Lola’s, a local restaurant, which used to be Freddie’s. We had many days with two or three other people at the river mouth.

This is Jeffro.

I am so grateful for all of those days, in the water, with few people. Those were the days. And the older I get, the more I know, these are the “good ole days”. That kind of attitude goes a long way when your session is “invaded” by fifty people. That’s what happened two days ago. But I was happy. I got my waves and I got out. It was a great morning. Continue reading Surfing, Misplaced Christmas and a Weird New Year

OxyContin for Surfers

I don’t think so!

I had a thought, for a post. One that I am passionate about. It concerned health and healing. As I was writing, in another room, the newscasters were droning on. It caught my attention. Once again, they were talking about Facebook and Blogging, and how no privacy exists today. The government flags certain blogs, because of language. Buzz words. Government is probably one of the buzzers. Who knows? That thought inhibits me.My original idea was; the use of drugs goes against the concept of  FREE SPIRIT.  A soul surfer would never want drugs!