The Whakaari

The Whakaari, the sailing vessel of a Kiwi, named Craig, was stranded at the Boca de Rio, Playa Avellanas. It was a great diversion through the month of October, the hardest of the rains here.

All speculated, and had their opinion of details involved. How could this happen? Wasn’t he lucky, being so unlucky. He beached precariously, between reefs.

I was impressed with the Captain’s demeanor. He never showed signs of stress or anger. He always had a smile and friendly words.

I know he has to leave us.

He’s just beginning on his, around the world adventure.

He will be missed.

Citizen of the Surf

IMG_0803citizen |ˈsitizən, -sən|(abbr.: cit. ) noun
a legally recognized subject or national of a state or commonwealth, either native or naturalized: a British citizen | the rights of every citizen.
• an inhabitant of a particular area

I am a citizen of the surf, as is the girl in the photo above. I have seen her surfing at my home break, Playa Avellanas for the last week. Paddling out, catching waves, I don’t know her, I don’t have to. She’s another surfer, in the water. A sister citizen, of the waves. Continue reading Citizen of the Surf

MY Standard of Living


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Caught in the rain and we don’t care.

  • Maintain an “In the Moment” Pace
  • Eat fruits and vegetables
  • Give rides to people who do not have cars
  • Surf
  • Take good great photos
  • Be kind

These are the standards that I live by. These are the “things” most important to me.

R. J. Rio de Janeiro

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOn the Road – R.J.

Is a specialty company, selling crocheted tops, such as the one, modeled here.

When I go for a walk on the beach, I never know what, or who, I’m going to encounter. Leaving the shipwreck, I met three girls; two models, one a photographer, all three surfers. They are traveling and supporting themselves, via the internet. We have come into an altered world.

We are living in a time of warped speed. She asked me if I had instagram. I replied no, “I’m primitive.” I showed her my dumb phone, that I purchased last week. I never have it when I need it. And it rings, when I’m driving. But I bought it, because it’s suppose to save my life, at some point.

I became mindful of how much goes on, in a place, that looks like time has stood still.

And in writing this, I’m reminded of all the shells that, I know, were walking down the beach, at the time I took this photo.

Speed up, slow down, speed up, slow down.

Who sets the pace?

Lucky – Unlucky

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERALast Friday, I went to catch my waves, and was surprised, by this sight. The sailor is a New Zealander, who had the fortune / misfortune, to beach on scenic, Playa Avellanes. Also, his sloop is resting in a river mouth, sitting on sand, perched between two reefs. I have been walking down and following the process of those working, to solve his dilemma. He never seems stressed, and he’s never shown one sign of anger.  He is diligent in the recovery.

I know we’re all rooting for him.

And help will come.

We never know. Sometimes, the most disastrous events in our lives, turn out to be our blessings.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Day Six

Today’s Work

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThis is my pic of the day – photoshopped.

I made numerous alterations to achieve this image.

The waves were nice and once again – I had no ride to the beach, but no worries. I took my fins and Olympus and swam out in the break to get photos. It was my first day out with fins. I got slammed. But it was so much fun.

Rocks are My Friends

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThese rocks never let me down.

Playa Avellanas is my Costa Rica, home break.

Once I found this beach, I’ve never wanted to leave it.

Sometimes, because of crowds, or when life gets hard, I think of escaping to Mexico. Me-hee-co is the speedball of adventure. And one day I might get there again. But, until that happens, daydreams are cost effective.

Quien sabe?

Fernandina Beach, the town that I’m from, and where I learned to surf, has a dumping beach break. When I got down here at the age of forty, and discovered point breaks and reefs, I was a changed surfer.

The rocks make the wave more predictable.

I rely on my friends. I don’t need surprises.

Born Abstract

100_1138-shs2I WAS BORN ABSTRACT

in shades of grey

no sunshine – nor joy – no days to play

I was smothered by concrete

borders-boundries and rules

UNTIL ONE DAY

I was given the tools.

Colors sprang forth

Trees grew and bent

I laughed and I cried

I travelled and went.

To the land of the abstract

where I belong

filled with the spirit

singing my song.

Where the lilies bloom

No toil ~ No gloom

Follow your bliss, Miss

I WAS BORN ABSTRACT

* This painting is part of a mural, on my water tank, in Playa Avellanas, Costa Rica. It is the Rabbit Hole. I dream of having a special kind of surf camp there.