Citizen of the Surf

IMG_0803citizen |ˈsitizən, -sən|(abbr.: cit. ) noun
a legally recognized subject or national of a state or commonwealth, either native or naturalized: a British citizen | the rights of every citizen.
• an inhabitant of a particular area

I am a citizen of the surf, as is the girl in the photo above. I have seen her surfing at my home break, Playa Avellanas for the last week. Paddling out, catching waves, I don’t know her, I don’t have to. She’s another surfer, in the water. A sister citizen, of the waves.

I claim two home breaks, here and The Pier, in Fernandina Beach. But I, like most surfers, have travelled to many breaks.

Surfers call themselves locals, at their home beach. They can be territorial.

I being a gringa in Central America, am always mistaken, by the perpetual onslaught of tourist surfers, as yet another tourist.

The weak and miserable, will always anchor themselves to me in the line-up. They see me as their chance for a wave.


Because of who I am, it’s something that I have to deal with, on an ongoing basis, until I die.

As a citizen of the surf, my father being the wind, the sea my mother and the sun my brother ~

Good luck to all that sit by me.

May the best citizen win.


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