Playa Avellanas is my Costa Rica, home break.
Once I found this beach, I’ve never wanted to leave it.
Sometimes, because of crowds, or when life gets hard, I think of escaping to Mexico. Me-hee-co is the speedball of adventure. And one day I might get there again. But, until that happens, daydreams are cost effective.
Fernandina Beach, the town that I’m from, and where I learned to surf, has a dumping beach break. When I got down here at the age of forty, and discovered point breaks and reefs, I was a changed surfer.
The rocks make the wave more predictable.
I rely on my friends. I don’t need surprises.