This photo was taken by John Lyman, at my favorite surf break, in Costa Rica. Of all the years I’ve surfed, and all the waves I’ve ridden, I have very few pictures. I have been on waves way bigger than this one. They are burnt in my brain forever. The battle to take the wave, falling over the ledge, and the drama of hanging on, is part of my senses.
A captured moment, such as this, can pull the memory trigger on not just one wave, but dozens.
I’m fortunate I have this image at all. I had to pay to get it.
I am not a ripper. My claim to fame, use to be, that I would charge waves that women were not on. But that’s history; something way in the past. For one, I’m not aggressive for bigger waves and two, the line-up can be filled with women.
I still sit out and wait on the set waves. I always like it when I get the wave of the day. But more and more, as my boards get longer and longer, I try to style it, on small waves. They make me laugh.
Each and every wave has a life of its own.
Every surfer is photo worthy.
As a photographer, I spend my time, working to capture the best of a surfer’s abilities. It takes time, patience, and sometimes giving up shots of the better and best surfers. I ply my trade on the beaches of Amelia Island.
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That and five dollars will get me a cup of coffee at Starbucks.
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If you’re hitchhiking to California, and you put your thumb out, then no one gives you a ride ~ If you stop walking you will never get there.
I don’t want to stop my photography, no matter what!
These rocks never let me down.
