Rocks are My Friends

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThese rocks never let me down.

Playa Avellanas is my Costa Rica, home break.

Once I found this beach, I’ve never wanted to leave it.

Sometimes, because of crowds, or when life gets hard, I think of escaping to Mexico. Me-hee-co is the speedball of adventure. And one day I might get there again. But, until that happens, daydreams are cost effective.

Quien sabe?

Fernandina Beach, the town that I’m from, and where I learned to surf, has a dumping beach break. When I got down here at the age of forty, and discovered point breaks and reefs, I was a changed surfer.

The rocks make the wave more predictable.

I rely on my friends. I don’t need surprises.

Surf 101

I’ve just spent five weeks of my life, in the hot sun, every morning, capturing the moments of children, on their summer vacations, learning to surf.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAChris Igou ~ The Boss
IMG_6100Kids from the first week. They didn’t really like getting their picture taken, but I’m glad I got this shot. I think this could be a poster for a Disney Surf Movie. Continue reading Surf 101

The Gift

* The Gift is authored by guest writer ~ Jarrod Kaylor.

The best gift I have ever given ~ I also received a gift ~ from giving it. Recently, last December, I was fortunate enough to change someone’s life and they changed mine, as well. I went on a surfing trip to Nicaragua and my life was touched by a kid there, about the same age as me.

This kids name is Ramone. He is a Nicaraguan local that surfed. He absolutely KILLED it. He was so good at surfing and he was surfing on a terrible board, but it didn’t hold him back. I was surfing with him one day, while we were there, and we kind of had a language barrier, but we could still converse.

Anyways, the day before I was leaving Nicaragua we were hanging out at the surf house. I got to thinking how lucky I am to have all of these boards and how ungrateful I truly was.

God talked to me on this day and told me to give this kid my board. It was new and when I handed it to him he was speechless.facebook_-858321963-1

I started to tear up and so did he. He was so happy, he gave me a hug and wouldn’t stop saying gracias. That night I cried like a baby, because it hit me so hard. It was truly the best gift I’ve ever received; and the best gift I’ve ever given.

I was touched and always will be.

*I’ve always heard it’s better to give than to receive. I agree one hundred percent with Jarrod. There is a gift in the giving.

He was obedient to his inner voice and in that there is always a reward.

It’s  Monday morning and in a few hours I will be at work, with the kids at surf camp. Jarrod is one of the instructors.

IMG_7138oIMG_7150IMG_8621Jarrod is a blessing in my life, as Ramone was in his. I hope that he will continue to write about his experiences, and continue to share them with us at Secondhand Surfer.

Peace

250

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERATwo hundred-fifty is not my weight, it’s not my house number and it’s not my area code. It’s the number of posts that I have published, since I started this venture, or should I say, adventure?

I can remember my first. I wrote that it felt as if I was throwing a bottle into the ocean, wondering what shore it would end up on. Who would read it? Or would anyone?

Since it’s inception, Secondhand Surfer Blog has splintered into the blog and a facebook page by the same name, posting daily photos of local surfers in Fernandina Beach, Florida, USA. Or surfers, on the breaks near my home in Costa Rica.

So much has transpired. I feel that Secondhand Surfer is going into, yet, another direction. But I’m not sure where.

I find myself at a crossroad, once again.

Unlike the one where Robert Johnson sold his soul, to the devil. Just an everyday, crossroad  decision.

~Indians once thought, and many still do, that a camera had the power to steal your soul~

~I think a camera can capture your soul and hand it back to you-especially in surfing~

I treasure my camera. I look forward to being on the beach.

I wonder where this photography gig is going to take me.

Cartesian.

Lost and Found

All of Life is an Act of Letting Go ~ PiIMG_3182jj

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I’m grateful for all that God has given me, all that has been taken away, and all that I have left.

Grace

IMG_1893fffGod always gives me everything that I need. The questions is ~ am I willing to receive it?

Grace is a theological term that describes~ blessing that come from above, regardless of merit.

I always knew that God was the answer. But something kept me apart. That something was self. Continue reading Grace

Shawn Messer

This is a pictureless post.

It’s about an old friend, Shawn Messer, may he rest in peace.

If you’re from Fernandina and you die, chances are you’re going to be cremated or buried at Bosque Bello Cemetery. The funeral homes are still-somewhat-segregated, and if you are white, Oxley Heard are the lucky caretakers of your last ride, your bon voyage.

The gathering for Shawn’s dismissal was overwhelming. The small, quaint chapel was filled with attractive, young people; mostly surfers. My strongest memory of that day were the sunglasses. Everyone had on sunglasses. Having recently purchased a pair of Oakley’s, for one hundred and ten dollars, I was counting the money involved. That’s a miserable, throwback from my days as a professional buyer.

Shawn was killed in an auto accident on a dirt road somewhere in Costa Rica. I don’t know where he was going, but I know that he had been at the Mono Congo Lodge, near Playa Negra. He was escorting a mother and daughter from Texas, showing them the country. Those were the days. Back then there were no road signs and few tourists. Only the most adventurous souls were here. The days were filled with empty beaches, waterfalls and solitary sunsets. Any traveler’s dream would be to hook up with someone like Shawn and claim their ticket to paradise.

He had been successful back in the states. He was a builder, landing contracts, on our booming island. He was one good looking man. He bought himself a red corvette, pulled his long dark hair back in a pony tail and hit the town. He was a stand out.

In his bathing suit he looked like Tarzan. He was buff and had a beaming smile.

The real thing about Shawn was ~ he was nice!

I just love people like that. He didn’t have a mean bone in his body.

My husband and I had planned to come down and let him guide us around. We were going to pay him to take us to the breaks. Why not?

I’ve often thought about that trip that never was.

Making my way here on my own wasn’t easy. I would go into the one and only local surf shop back then and ask questions about Costa Rica. They would blow me off and tell me to read a magazine. So, I did. I hooked up with Surf Express, my first few trips, and began to find my way around.

It came to light, how jealous Shawn’s “friends” were of his new life. How they offered him no support. How they wanted to just come down and sponge. Hey, what are “friends” for?  That was another thought on my mind that day, sitting amongst that sea of death and beauty. The words that I had overheard. People degrading Shawn for his lifestyle choice. It had the ring of sour grapes to me. So many people want to live an adventure, but they just don’t have the guts.

Shawn Messer was a pioneer. A modern day Daniel Boone. He unwittingly paved the way for others.

He was my hero.

Long live Shawn Messer. May you be riding the big wave, in the sky. I know that you’re of the soul ~ embraced by the best of the big wave riders.

We are only here on this earth for a short time.

Do we want to be remembered as a mean spirited individual, or a loving aloha, pure vida surfer, secure in our place on the earth and in the heavens.

We could all learn a lesson from the beam of light, that was Shawn’s life.

In Memory of Shawn Messier

Under Construction

IMG_7630shs2My Blog

  1. Replace Heading
  2. Add page headings
  3. Write more in pages
  4. Track down side bar problem
  5. Possibly use a different theme

My Photography

  1. Go out today and shoot surf photos
  2. Implement new info learned in yesterday’s class
  3. Format my card

 

David Montgomery

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Besides being a surfer, David is a talented, on-the-hill, artist. You can see examples of his work on silverfish closet.com.

 

Keep it Simple

129859986187026572Note to self – Don’t sweat the small stuff. It’s all small stuff.

This picture was taken about 1996, under the tree in front of Lola’s, (Playa Avellanas, Costa Rica) when Lola’s was still called Freddie’s. I didn’t know at that time, that I was going to sell my home, in Fernandina Bch, Florida, and leave the United States.

It’s been a good journey, so far. i just wanted to remind myself to keep it simple, one day at a time and everything’s gonna be alright!