My Funeral

wrecksWednesday, I went to the funeral, of a friend, who died suddenly, from a heart attack. He was 45. The chapel was small, and filled with friends. Every seat was taken, and some were standing in the back and up the side aisles.

I wondered, if I died, who would be at my funeral?  Numerous images came to mind. First – No one. Then, maybe a few friends from the Amelia Room, a club that I have belonged to, through the years. They would be gathered at a spot by the beach, spreading my ashes in the wind. Surely, some of my surf buddies would be in attendance. And maybe some brothers and sisters, from my church, would say a few prayers. “I don’t know”.  I just don’t know, how all of that would happen. First you die, and then the word spreads. Hopefully, they don’t plan my service, where my farewell competes with a football game, or an epic swell. But, really, it wouldn’t matter, because I would be dead. Continue reading My Funeral

My Favorite Cowboy

There’s no doubt in my mind, my favorite cowboy, is my brother, Danny. 

Browsing through WordPress, I stumbled on a prompt; the idea of the day, to write about; MY FAVORITE.

I began to think about that: which is my favorite beach, my favorite hotel, my favorite wave, photograph, painting. No, I just couldn’t come up with anything, because as soon as an image surfaced, another would compete.

Then I thought about my brother. He’s my one and only. I can definitely call him my favorite. And he happens to be a cowboy.

100_4330I’ve travelled as far as Oklahoma to watch him ride. He’s a team roper. This involves two cowboys, one that ropes the head of the steer, while the other ropes the back heels. With a short burst of energy, swinging their lasso, galloping wide open, they track and capture the animal, while racing against the clock. It’s a cattleman’s skill, turned into a competition.

I saw many similarities in cowboys and surfers. They like to congregate. They do what they do and then they talk about it. They dress alike. We wear bathing suits and flip-flops. They wear blue jeans, long sleeve shirts and boots. We wear sun screen and they wear cowboy hats. Their spectators are in the stands, while ours are on the beach. They chase rodeos like we chase waves. And at the end of the day, we all like to kick back and watch the sun set.100_4359This rare picture of us together was taken at a local, annual fair, 2009. It was a blast. Not only watching the ropers, bull riders and clowns, but just being with my brother.

The beach and cowboy trail rarely intersect. That’s just the way it is. We would have to go out of our way to visit one another. I’ve been meaning to look him up.

A note of interest: he thinks surfing is scary!

Focus

IMG_9949Christmas can be a difficult holiday, for many. I use to be one of those. At one time, I experienced extreme depression on what was supposed to be the most joyful day of the year.

I, with help ~ from people ~ learned to turn all of that around.

Focus on what you have, rather than what you don’t have.

Merry Christmas!


Secondhand Surfer is my personal journal. It has been a life saver this year. 2012 is coming to a close and I’m already looking forward to making my blog better next year. I’d like to think that I have been successful this year, in all that I’ve learned and published: all the pictures I’ve taken and edited, all the people I’ve met, waves I’ve caught and places I’ve traveled to.

My audience are those who read my posts……

Thank you everyone for sharing my year!

The Duggans

      Meet the Duggans

They are like trees planted along the riverbank, bearing fruit each season.

Their leaves never wither, and they prosper in all they do.psalms 1 v.3

The father, Doug was out surfing with two of his five children, Lucas and Kayla.

Twenty-five years ago, I was driving Doug and his friends to the break with me. I remember, in one of those sessions, some guy in the line-up called me an old woman. That’s funny. I rode a 5’10 Challenger back then. Now I paddle out on a 10’2. I wonder if he’s still surfing? It’s all relative.

~I can still remember Doug’s grandmother, being a voice of encouragement, in my young life~

 I feel related.

God is Good

Who is family?

Who is my family? I would have to say everyone.

Having answered that, seemingly, “out of the blue” question to myself, I have to smile.

I’m sure this guy is my brother and I don’t know his last name. I don’t have to.

Featured Family #6

I first saw this photo years ago at my Aunt’s house. She is someone I saw only a few times in my life. But, I had an admiration for her, which has grown through the years. She passed away recently, the last of these family members to die. I had visited her because I wanted her to tell me about my father.

I never really knew him. My parents were not separated. They lived together until my father’s death at the age of 54.

I can’t remember ever having a conversation with him~because we never had one.

My Dad is the younger boy on the left.

This picture haunts me.

I want to tell their story. The best that I can anyway. I was raised on stories of my father’s life.

One day I will.

Featured Family #5

If you travel to Costa Rica, down a red clay road, to the remote, outpost Avellanas, you will find a fine dining restaurant, where this man is one of the waiters. You will be greeted with a luminous smile and a genuine “pura vida“.

Needless to say his family is the same. 

Natalia is another surfing mama.

What a beautiful life. What a beautiful family.

*None of the photos are mine. The restaurant is the famous, Lola’s.

Featured Family #4

~Every picture tells a story, story~

I woke up this morning THINKING. I just hate
it when I think so much, so I decided to get up and write.

My husband’s brother, was the first to live in our little slice of nature, Camp Tobacco. When I met his wife, I was amazed. She is a bow hunter. She is a hog hunter, as the picture above exemplifies her success in this endeavor. I was impressed. Not everyone can track down a hog and kill it with a bow and arrow.

I became unimpressed, when I stopped by the house and saw sixteen pit bull dogs in the front yard. Needless to say, I was a bit nervous. She had a three year old child, at the time. I was soon to find out that mama dog had a litter of puppies in the bathroom of the cabin and there was a birthday party planned for her (my husband’s sister-in-law)  daughter. I wonder to this day, who would bring their child to a party where there are sixteen pit bull dogs. Continue reading Featured Family #4