I was on my way to the pier. I saw some surfers out. I went to go get my camera. One day, I’ll learn to keep it with me. Returning to the beach, armed, I saw this really cool looking rig heading down the road. A guy on a bike, was towing his long board. I thought, “what a great picture that could be.” So, I pulled over, ahead of him, and waited. He turned!
I thought, “that sucks.” What did he do that for?
I guess he’s private. Or maybe he just likes to bike around the long way. Who knows?
So, I followed him to the water.
That’s how I met Debbie. She is a student surfer and professor of law. Dealing with the laws of gravity, she was catching, one wave after the other.
To take the pic above, I should have run around, with the sun at my back to get a better shot, but I felt like I only had a few seconds. She was busy with her lesson.
In the brief few minutes that we talked, she shared with me her enthusiasm for the sport and her philosophy of a simple life.
I agreed with everything she said.
What a nice way to start the day.