Surfing excursions use to be quite different than it is today. For me anyway. There was a time when I could put my board on my car drive I-10, turn left and start surfing the coast. It was cheap as hell. It was a bit complicated at times, but it was “true” adventure.
Others were terrified to travel. They could surf great but they were skeered of “what was out there.” Something might “get em”.
I drove through the Chiapas during civil unrest. I followed the Federales to a bank robbery for a quick pass back to the border, to turn in a document.
Continue reading Bocas Del Toro
Meet Debbie. I did, this morning.
I was on my way to the pier. I saw some surfers out. I went to go get my camera. One day, I’ll learn to keep it with me. Returning to the beach, armed, I saw this really cool looking rig heading down the road. A guy on a bike, was towing his long board. I thought, “what a great picture that could be.” So, I pulled over, ahead of him, and waited. He turned!
I thought, “that sucks.” What did he do that for?
I guess he’s private. Or maybe he just likes to bike around the long way. Who knows?
So, I followed him to the water.
That’s how I met Debbie. She is a student surfer and professor of law. Dealing with the laws of gravity, she was catching, one wave after the other.
To take the pic above, I should have run around, with the sun at my back to get a better shot, but I felt like I only had a few seconds. She was busy with her lesson.
In the brief few minutes that we talked, she shared with me her enthusiasm for the sport and her philosophy of a simple life.
I agreed with everything she said.
What a nice way to start the day.