Wet Suits ~ uh huh
Today we will trek to Echo Park. An area of Los Angeles that I lived in in 1985. That should be interesting. When I got off of the plane here a few days ago, my mind was flooded with memories. I can’t believe I expended that much energy in those four short months. UNBELIEVABLE!
However, it all brought me to today. And that’s what counts.
This morning was San Onofre special. Our friend, Glenn, surfs there EVERYDAY! Do these people know how lucky they are? Ron, with the surf van and the friendly dog, has been surfing this break since 1958. I told him I’d been trying to get there, since 1958. Really, more like 68′, but it did get a laugh.
It was definitely bucket list, to stand on that beach. I could feel it.
They don’t call this beach, Old Man’s, for nothing. It’s Old Man’s and Old School. It’s difficult to appreciate that until you’ve lived and surfed a long time. I’ve surfed a lot of beaches in the western hemisphere that surfers want to travel to. But this place was more.
These folks get up and surf before work, hang out at the fire and they’ve been doing it for years.
Rachel, was a stand out, walking to the nose every ride.
Tomorrow, we’re all planning to catch waves.
I can’t come this far and not surf! That water looks COLD!
I received a Happy Anniversary note from Word Press today. It was a year ago, that I first signed up for this gig. I had no idea where it was headed and I still don’t. This year has seen its ups and downs, with my blog being a steadfast anchor. Thanks to everyone who has supported me and encouraged my photography and writing.
And thanks to all the awesome surfers, who have added a colorful element to my existence, while traveling on this rock called Earth.
Good morning!
Everyday I want to rise up and enjoy the day the Lord has made.
I’ve been journaling, for around twenty-five years. I began a computer journal in 1997. I have stories, poems, accounts of my life. I have to do lists and declarations. I found a magic in writing. It helps to keep me centered.
When I go back and read, I’m always glad that I wrote.
This photo is another taken during Hurricane Sandy. It’s an anonymous surfer. Photographing this storm caught me by surprise. I felt my addiction to the ocean, to my camera and surfing. I talked to so many people, that I would have never met, had I not had my camera.
I will always have a bit of OCD, ADD, ADHD and a few other letters of the alphabet. But I transform on the beach, vicariously surfing. My camera is my drug.
I really want to give thanks to God this morning, for all that has been done for me.
This is my reality ~ and until my knees bent, back in 87′, I couldn’t make anything work for me.
Tonight, there is going to be a premier for a locally made movie, King of Fernandina, showcasing an East Coast Surfing Association. It is going to be AWESOME.
It’s a different life ~ different world.
What a good wave…
There’s so many things that I want to do and want to learn.
I still haven’t been able to make a watermark. Any ten-year old ought to be able to handle that job. Right now, my text will have to do.
I posted a comment on my Facebook page, by Jim Carey. The jest of it was ~ all of the riches in the world will not bring happiness. It’s key to find what you love to do and then give it back.
Remember the movie – Pay It Forward. That’s an idealistic concept that actually works. I never want to forget that.
It was another Ice Cream Sundayz at Pipeline Surf Shop, Fernandina Beach, FL. Rob Ruy, the owner really puts out a lot of energy for the surf ~ skate culture here.
We’re participating in life and recording.
I really like these photos. They are remnants of Sandy. D.M. is David Montgomery. C.I. is Chris Igou. And Chuda is Chuda……When I surf, I feel like they look..
We will not regret our past~nor wish to shut the door on it.
Yesterday, when I was standing on the beach taking photos, the wind was biting cold to me. I didn’t like it at all! My nose began to get cold and I started remembering. I normally don’t mind sharing my memories and telling my story. But for some reason, with this I hesitated. I didn’t want to think about it. Continue reading A Sprinkle of Remembrance
photography………It can be re-done, edited, cropped, colored, manipulated…..as much as you choose.
Unfortunately, life can not be done over. I was looking through papers yesterday and I was reminded of the date when my life took a significant turn. I thought that I had hit a home run and the future looked super-bright. But that was not the case.
When these things happen, its best to focus on the good.
Focus~a photography term.
Photography helps me to maintain a good attitude~no matter what.
Meet the Duggans
They are like trees planted along the riverbank, bearing fruit each season.
Their leaves never wither, and they prosper in all they do.psalms 1 v.3
The father, Doug was out surfing with two of his five children, Lucas and Kayla.
Twenty-five years ago, I was driving Doug and his friends to the break with me. I remember, in one of those sessions, some guy in the line-up called me an old woman. That’s funny. I rode a 5’10 Challenger back then. Now I paddle out on a 10’2. I wonder if he’s still surfing? It’s all relative.
~I can still remember Doug’s grandmother, being a voice of encouragement, in my young life~
I feel related.
God is Good
Fish Eye Farm 