Everyday I want to rise up and enjoy the day the Lord has made.
I’ve been journaling, for around twenty-five years. I began a computer journal in 1997. I have stories, poems, detailed accounts of my life and my feelings. I have to do lists and declarations. I found a magic in writing. It helps to keep me centered.
When I go back and read, I’m always glad that I wrote.
This photo is another taken during Hurricane Sandy. It’s an anonymous surfer. Photographing this storm caught me by surprise. I felt my addiction to the ocean, to my camera and surfing. I talked to so many people, that I would have never met, had I not had my camera.
I will always have a bit of OCD, ADD, ADHD and a few other letters of the alphabet. But I transform on the beach, vicariously surfing. My camera does for me what drugs never did.
I really want to give thanks to God this morning, for all that has been done for me.
This is my reality ~ and until my knees bent, back in 87′, I couldn’t make anything work for me.
Tonight, there is going to be a premier for a locally made movie, King of Fernandina, showcasing an East Coast Surfing Association. It is going to be AWESOME.
It’s a different life ~ different world.