Tag: life

Andrea Diaz

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWhen I pulled into the Playa Avellanas parking lot, the Roxy/Quicksilver van was there. I’ve seen it, off and on, through the years. A lot of camps transport surfers here, to surf the Dead Tree break. I caught some waves and then got out of the water, to get my Olympus TG-2. There were some local kids out and I wanted the practice.

To my surprise, I came face to face, with Andrea Diaz-the Costa Rican, surf champion. In August of 2012, she placed fifth, at the World Masters, held in Colorado/Nicaragua.

I had just seen her in a presentation, via Jorge Mora, board shaper and owner of Sick Surfboards. It’s on U Tube. The video is called Surf for Youth 2013. Andrea and other surfers are giving back to the local community.

Jorge is here in Costa Rica, doing what he can to help out this super-worth while effort.

Andrea is one of the instructors for the Roxy/Quicksilver Surf Camp ~Waves Costa Rica.

I never know who I’m going to run into.

What an honor-what a good day.

Soul Possession

With patience you posses your soul.

This is a scriptural passage from the book of Luke.

I am sitting at my desk, waiting to drive in to San José. I thought I would spend some time with my pictures and my Secondhand Surf Facebook page – but NOT.

Things won’t down load. They won’t upload. My page here has been switched to CSS/code. Now I have to figure out how to change it.

Life is always about struggle and letting go.

I give up for now.

SALTYBUDS

Many-many people are out and about traveling the world and surfing!

Danny Clayton's avatarSalt Gypsy

Saltybuds handmade board coversWhere are you from and what are the waves like? Originally I`m from Germany but I`m always travelling around Europe (France, UK, Spain, Iceland, Portugal…) and Latin America. With my parents and younger sister I used to move from place to place, from the city to the countryside and back…when someone asks me where I come from I always have to think about it before I answer. Sometimes it`s difficult to say, but normally my answer is that I`m from the north of Germany where the sea isn`t far away.

After my teacher studies, my boyfriend and I bought a golden Mercedes van in 2011 and we went to France, London and the Basque Country, always trying to live and work by the sea. After one and a half years living and travelling together in this tiny golden box I felt the need of having my own space, my little…

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P.S. Meet Preston

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERALike a post script to a letter, I must add more about Preston. He’s the first surfer in my last entry, Artist Update.

Preston came through the door of the Pipeline Surf Shop, last Monday, saying hello and introducing himself to everyone.

Here he is after five days of surf, enjoying the Friday, end of camp, Luau.

There is no one like Preston.

He’s the Man!

P.S. What a great week.

The family tha…

“The family that prays together – stays together. The family that drinks together – stinks together”.

ME

A Sprinkle of Rage

Two sisters are crouched in a three by three space, attempting to suppress their hyper-ventalatized breath; not wanting to address their present fear. Twenty feet and two doors separate them from a man with a gun.

A man whose, out of control, deep and threatening voice, is screaming. “I’m going to kill them!” “I’m going to kill them!” Continue reading A Sprinkle of Rage

My Favorite Cowboy

There’s no doubt in my mind, my favorite cowboy, is my brother, Danny. 

Browsing through WordPress, I stumbled on a prompt; the idea of the day, to write about; MY FAVORITE.

I began to think about that: which is my favorite beach, my favorite hotel, my favorite wave, photograph, painting. No, I just couldn’t come up with anything, because as soon as an image surfaced, another would compete.

Then I thought about my brother. He’s my one and only. I can definitely call him my favorite. And he happens to be a cowboy.

100_4330I’ve travelled as far as Oklahoma to watch him ride. He’s a team roper. This involves two cowboys, one that ropes the head of the steer, while the other ropes the back heels. With a short burst of energy, swinging their lasso, galloping wide open, they track and capture the animal, while racing against the clock. It’s a cattleman’s skill, turned into a competition.

I saw many similarities in cowboys and surfers. They like to congregate. They do what they do and then they talk about it. They dress alike. We wear bathing suits and flip-flops. They wear blue jeans, long sleeve shirts and boots. We wear sun screen and they wear cowboy hats. Their spectators are in the stands, while ours are on the beach. They chase rodeos like we chase waves. And at the end of the day, we all like to kick back and watch the sun set.100_4359This rare picture of us together was taken at a local, annual fair, 2009. It was a blast. Not only watching the ropers, bull riders and clowns, but just being with my brother.

The beach and cowboy trail rarely intersect. That’s just the way it is. We would have to go out of our way to visit one another. I’ve been meaning to look him up.

A note of interest: he thinks surfing is scary!

Transformation

Metamorphosis

If Kafka–had surfed, would he have transformed into a bug more appealing, say a light and colorful butterfly?

Surfing lends itself to beauty.