God is Good~Psalms 100:5
May this year be filled with the Goodness.
Tag: Fernandina Bch FL
The Future
A few years back, upon getting out of the water, at Huguenot Park, Florida, I overheard a guy in the parking lot say, as a joke, but with a bit of sadness in his voice, “I thought that Gidget was just a myth.”
There are more and more women in the water.
This is the future.
Review of 2012
Everyone on WordPress is reviewing their year; all of their blogging projects and challenge entries. I didn’t do any of that, this year. It was all I could do, to do what I did. If you know what I mean.
Looking back, I was nominated for a Versatile Blogger Award, but didn’t respond to it, because I didn’t know how. Dwellable contacted me, because they thought my blog would be a good representation of Fernandina Beach, Florida, my home town. But I didn’t know how to transfer the button. And I’m still writing the text on my photos, because I don’t know how to create a watermark. As shabby as it may sound, I still see these as a success.
My main goal, in Secondhand Surfer, has become to capture the best surf memories that I can. I choose this hobby, as opposed to psychotropics. (In editing, I realize, I should probably let y’all know that I have never used psychotropics.)(Not that I have anything against psychotropics.)(hmmmm…nevermind) My blog, gets me out of the house. It puts me on the beach in the sunshine, in the morning, at sunset, in the wind. It overrides my negative side. My camera introduces me to people. My photography gives my life direction.
The photos above jumped out at me last night, as I browsed my archives. I have thousands of pictures from last year.
I don’t have any favorite surfers or breaks. You could be on the biggest wave of the year or taking off in the white water on your first wave ever, it doesn’t matter to me.
I’ve surfed off and on all of my life. Although I’m an artist, and I have always utilized photography, I never would have chosen to be on the beach, behind a camera, over being in the water.
When I started this blog last year and named it Secondhand Surfer, I had no idea how appropriate it would be. Me and my camera, we SECONDHAND SURF! My smile is big as anyone’s in the water!.
Thanks to all the surfers, and supportive friends who helped me to have such a great year. And thanks to WordPress for affording me this venue, not only to display my journal and photos, but to read others as well.
New Day/New Wave
911 Surf Report
I woke up this morning with much rattling in my head. Dr. Phil‘s in there. I watched part of a show about teenage girls with bad attitudes. One interview with a girl named Amanda stopped me. I had to listen. I normally never watch Dr. Phil. This girl was angry, violent and out of control. hmm..sounded familiar….what impressed me was the way Dr. Phil perceived her situation. Of course, she was angry. Of course, she was volatile and ready to swing. Where was he when I needed him.
I related. I use to get in trouble for the way I looked at people.
Anyway, it went on that she went off to a horse ranch called Aspen Turn-About Ranch. She was open to getting help.
I went to my computer checked my Facebook and thought I would check out 911-the Jax Beach Surf Report. I think there should be good waves today.
A Line in the Sand
As a pre-schooler I watched Captain Kangaroo. Mr. Green Jeans and the Rabbit were cool, but the Magic Drawing Board was my favorite. Black lines would just appear on blank board and draw whatever!
Since then I have learned the power of the mark. When we make one, it is us. It is revealing.
I draw lines, in the sand.
Flying Home
John Lyman Photos
This is the caliber of photographer that I aspire to be. I had so much fun surfing at the Huntington Beach Pier today. The waves were small, like they’ve been, since we’ve been here in California.
I work to be as savvy with a camera and technology as John Lyman is. When I first met John, in Tamarindo, he worked with film. Some of the best pictures I have of me surfing, are by him, at the River Mouth, in Playa Avellanas.
Everyday here, has been filled with adventure and good food and great friends.
It just doesn’t get any better.
Sunday Surfers-H.A
I received a Happy Anniversary note from Word Press today. It was a year ago, that I first signed up for this gig. I had no idea where it was headed and I still don’t. This year has seen its ups and downs, with my blog being a steadfast anchor. Thanks to everyone who has supported me and encouraged my photography and writing.
And thanks to all the awesome surfers, who have added a colorful element to my existence, while traveling on this rock called Earth.
King of the Peak
Brady McKenzie/King of the Peak
Last night was the premier for the surf movie – King of the Peak. 
Rick Chapman, Jessee Chapman, Bradley Dunham, Skyler DeBerry, Jarrod Kaylor and Zach Church
This event, the movie and the contest, was put on by our local East Coast Surfing Association. Rick is a talented surfer himself and invests much of his time, helping to provide a healthy environment for the local youth to compete. These guys are fierce competitors, in the water and friends on land. I know. Through my photography, I am a witness.
Rob and Melissa Ruy + kid in the next row.
I wish I had more pictures, for this post and for my archive. But my camera, the A495 Canon, which is a forty dollar camera, that cost me eighty in Costa Rica, is a piece of junk. Not because it’s a bad camera, but because I’ve dropped it so many times. It’s not what it use to be.
I find myself working with “what I have”.
But most importantly, I have pictures of this evening, burnt in my brain. I see smiling faces. I see groms riding waves.
This morning, I’m sitting in Starbucks listening to jazz, Christmas tunes, and overhearing the few other regulars, talking about football.
Everyone behind the counter is someone I feel like I know.
I have been here in Fernandina since May. I have not spent a winter here, on the island, in twelve years.
In the last seven months, I have been surrounded by families. Good families. People that spend time with their children.
As a matter of fact, Brady, who won the title, King of the Peak, could hand his crown to his Dad.
I’m in a good spot here, for now.
I feel a part of ~ Take Me To The Beach ~ where the Sun is my father and the Ocean my mother – I’m surrounded by sand, salt air and friends – life has no end………………
Take Me To The Beach
Queen of the Peak
Good Morning!
Good morning!
Everyday I want to rise up and enjoy the day the Lord has made.
I’ve been journaling, for around twenty-five years. I began a computer journal in 1997. I have stories, poems, accounts of my life. I have to do lists and declarations. I found a magic in writing. It helps to keep me centered.
When I go back and read, I’m always glad that I wrote.
This photo is another taken during Hurricane Sandy. It’s an anonymous surfer. Photographing this storm caught me by surprise. I felt my addiction to the ocean, to my camera and surfing. I talked to so many people, that I would have never met, had I not had my camera.
I will always have a bit of OCD, ADD, ADHD and a few other letters of the alphabet. But I transform on the beach, vicariously surfing. My camera is my drug.
I really want to give thanks to God this morning, for all that has been done for me.
This is my reality ~ and until my knees bent, back in 87′, I couldn’t make anything work for me.
Tonight, there is going to be a premier for a locally made movie, King of Fernandina, showcasing an East Coast Surfing Association. It is going to be AWESOME.
It’s a different life ~ different world.
Fish Eye Farm 