If Kafka–had surfed, would he have transformed into a bug more appealing, say a light and colorful butterfly?
Surfing lends itself to beauty.
Category: November 2012
A Skater Is
A Skater is an anti-hero.
I was born into an Irish Catholic Klan.
A Skater is independent
The weave of the Klan unravels.
A Skater is familiar with pain.
My heart bleeds with laughter.
A skater is part of the street.
I come and go as I please.
A skater is free.
“Freedom is being able to say what’s in your head.”
Streetz Sundayz +
Miles Holland
Ramonn Micciche
Miles Holland took an outstanding 2nd place in the~over the trash can jump~with Ramonn Micciche taking 1st. You had to LAND the jump to make the win.
Skaters are tough-the bigger the strawberry the bigger the smile!
Next Sunday should be interesting.
Ice Cream Sundaze
Sunday~Ice Cream Sundayz was a fun experience.
Back in December of last year, I wrote a post titled, With Patience…..
In it, I described the life I was enamored of. At the age of 9 or 10, I dreamed of being a street urchin. Sitting on a street curb symbolized independence and freedom.
That’s what skating is all about.
Give me freedom ~ Give me independence ~ Give me a trash can to jump over!
Jeremiah Joost-Miller/Plus
Jeremiah Joost-Miller
Jeremiah Joost-Miller
Plus
I met Jeremiah and his girlfriend on the beach a few days before the hurricane swell.
Jeremiah Joost-Miller
Jeremiah Joost-Miller
Photography humbles me.
H.S – (Hurricane Sandy)
The H.S. is for Hurricane Sandy. Ryan Hammers is the surfer.
I ran into Ryan and his friend. Visiting surfers from Jacksonville Beach, Big Saturday. They were two of the few people, here on the Island, that ventured out into the waves, that morning.
I got to show Ryan the pictures on the camera screen and he was smiling. Surfing is such a rush. You experience it and then it’s gone. I’m glad I happened to be there, and capture that barrel.
In my photography, now, I can bring some joy to others, by sharing my time and my talent. It helps me to connect with people and challenges me on many levels.
My life is blessed.
Sandy Day Afternoon
Bailey Riggan
This photo was taken from the Fernandina Beach Pier. It was the Sunday afternoon, during Hurricane Sandy. Bailey is one of my favorite groms-a grom being a kid surfer.
I am transitioning into a new process of how I handle my photos. It’s a lot of work and I am diligently teaching myself new software.
I dont’ know how much Island time I have ahead of me. But while I’m here I will be making the most of it.
It’s easy for me to stay out of the water and do my photography here. It’s too cold for me. My wetsuit went into retirement a long, long time ago.
I guess ALL of this is just the natural order of things.
Go Bailey!
Pipas, Sun and Real Books
Granted this is a blurred photo, but I can’t seem to part with it. It’s from one of the most cherished times. I’m sitting on a log, drinking coffee and reading a book in my make-shift kitchen. It’s in the dry season, at Playa Avellanas, Costa Rica. I have everything I need. Notice the wooden box, on the right, in the back of the picture. That’s my stove and cupboard area. I, also, have a phone hanging on the tree.
The waves are plentiful, right out front. To me, Playa Avellanas is one of the most magical beaches in the world.
I have been here on the island, way longer than I ever intended. I look forward to heading south again.
Life in Costa Rica is syrupy slow. It’s conducive to stress free, healthy living.
The speed of life here shows no sign of slowing down. I have begun to compare blogs and the internet as a fast food literary source.
It won’t be long and I’ll be back in the tropics, drinking pipas, riding some waves, reading real books and attempting to communicate in Spanish.
If I end up in a tent~no problem.
PURA VIDA PURA VIDA PURA VIDA PURA VIDA PURA VIDA PURA VIDA
I’m beginning to FEEL it.
Ice Cream Sundayz
This is Rob Ruy, owner of the Pipeline Surfshop, here in Fernandina Beach, on Amelia Island, FL.
He puts a lot of energy into helping the local kids shine in both sports; surfing and skating.
The island is going to have some skating going on! Every Sunday in November, there’s a competition, called ICE CREAM SUNDAYZ. The skate park here is a haven for a lot of young, serious athletes. Shooting this sport is very different. But it’s exciting and fun, so I’ll be there.
Not all surfers are skaters, and visa versa, but I do see some dual participants.
Marco Pacheco, the Costa Rican guide in the Endless Summer, recently said~surfing is to skating like football is to baseball~I believe that to be an accurate appraisal.
*I am not so sure about that.
Fish Eye Farm 