This is an example of the waves that can get kicked up in a storm, here on our island.When you see pics like this~you’re first thought might be ~ he’s never gonna make that!And then he does ~ This guy can surf!
And then there’s this surfer.This picture was taken on the same day.He had been very selective~choosing one of the less threatening waves.Nice~WIPEOUT!
This surfer is Josh Pinkin.
The west wind was blowing him back off the wave. He was being very cautious. The other surfers and people on the beach had concern. Inside, I was cheering him on. Right now, I had the thought of the ONE wave I rode at Puerto Escondido, Mexico. I could see people on the beach getting out of their chairs and pointing at me. I was an old lady, back then fifteen years ago. Anyway, I made it, he didn’t. There comes a time that every surfer has to step up.
He did and he was obviously happy about it, wipe-out and all.