
Shawn Day


I was born in a Cross Fire Hurricane
But it’s Alright Now
I Have Never Seen a Wild Thing Feel Sorry For Itself
If you’re not familiar with these lyrics and this quote ~ look em up!
I once had a Science teacher, Mrs. Fowler. That poor woman. I was so disruptive to her class. I asked her every question that was in my head.
She always had the same answer, “Look it up.”
Once again, I’m writing in the dark. I can hear the insects. Crick it. Crick it Crick it. Sometimes with a missed beat. Sometimes with a roll. And out of nowhere a step-child will blllld-
bllld- bllld. They own the night.
I’ll let them have it….
The stimulating intellectual atmosphere in which I grew up = Duck!
E=MC squared = something I wrote on the blackboard after watching a Mickey Mouse cartoon. I was mistaken for a genius.
Plank units = the number of boards I have to buy from Home Depot.
Cosmic acceleration = when my car runs without overheating.
When I catch a wave ~ get up ~ and Go!
Kinetic Energy = when the look on my face changes into the biggest smile possible, as I’m paddling back out.
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There’s no doubt in my mind, my favorite cowboy, is my brother, Danny.
Browsing through WordPress, I stumbled on a prompt; the idea of the day, to write about; MY FAVORITE.
I began to think about that: which is my favorite beach, my favorite hotel, my favorite wave, photograph, painting. No, I just couldn’t come up with anything, because as soon as an image surfaced, another would compete.
Then I thought about my brother. He’s my one and only. I can definitely call him my favorite. And he happens to be a cowboy.
I’ve travelled as far as Oklahoma to watch him ride. He’s a team roper. This involves two cowboys, one that ropes the head of the steer, while the other ropes the back heels. With a short burst of energy, swinging their lasso, galloping wide open, they track and capture the animal, while racing against the clock. It’s a cattleman’s skill, turned into a competition.
I saw many similarities in cowboys and surfers. They like to congregate. They do what they do and then they talk about it. They dress alike. We wear bathing suits and flip-flops. They wear blue jeans, long sleeve shirts and boots. We wear sun screen and they wear cowboy hats. Their spectators are in the stands, while ours are on the beach. They chase rodeos like we chase waves. And at the end of the day, we all like to kick back and watch the sun set.
This rare picture of us together was taken at a local, annual fair, 2009. It was a blast. Not only watching the ropers, bull riders and clowns, but just being with my brother.
The beach and cowboy trail rarely intersect. That’s just the way it is. We would have to go out of our way to visit one another. I’ve been meaning to look him up.
A note of interest: he thinks surfing is scary!
Note to self – Don’t sweat the small stuff. It’s all small stuff.
This picture was taken about 1996, under the tree in front of Lola’s, (Playa Avellanas, Costa Rica) when Lola’s was still called Freddie’s. I didn’t know at that time, that I was going to sell my home, in Fernandina Bch, Florida, and leave the United States.
It’s been a good journey, so far. i just wanted to remind myself to keep it simple, one day at a time and everything’s gonna be alright!
Christmas can be a difficult holiday, for many. I use to be one of those. At one time, I experienced extreme depression on what was supposed to be the most joyful day of the year.
I, with help ~ from people ~ learned to turn all of that around.
Focus on what you have, rather than what you don’t have.
Merry Christmas!
Secondhand Surfer is my personal journal. It has been a life saver this year. 2012 is coming to a close and I’m already looking forward to making my blog better next year. I’d like to think that I have been successful this year, in all that I’ve learned and published: all the pictures I’ve taken and edited, all the people I’ve met, waves I’ve caught and places I’ve traveled to.
My audience are those who read my posts……
Thank you everyone for sharing my year!
As a pre-schooler I watched Captain Kangaroo. Mr. Green Jeans and the Rabbit were cool, but the Magic Drawing Board was my favorite. Black lines would just appear on blank board and draw whatever!
Since then I have learned the power of the mark. When we make one, it is us. It is revealing.
I draw lines, in the sand.