Category: November 2014

Citizen of the Surf

IMG_0803citizen |ˈsitizən, -sən|(abbr.: cit. ) noun
a legally recognized subject or national of a state or commonwealth, either native or naturalized: a British citizen | the rights of every citizen.
• an inhabitant of a particular area

I am a citizen of the surf, as is the girl in the photo above. I have seen her surfing at my home break, Playa Avellanas for the last week. Paddling out, catching waves, I don’t know her, I don’t have to. She’s another surfer, in the water. A sister citizen, of the waves. Continue reading Citizen of the Surf

Post 400

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In 2011, I published my first post. I likened it to tossing a bottle into the ocean. Where would it travel to? Who would receive my message?

My journal has no focus other than my response to life.

It keeps me afloat.

MY Standard of Living


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Caught in the rain and we don’t care.

  • Maintain an “In the Moment” Pace
  • Eat fruits and vegetables
  • Give rides to people who do not have cars
  • Surf
  • Take good great photos
  • Be kind

These are the standards that I live by. These are the “things” most important to me.