Hang in there!
Last Friday, I posted to Sassy Silver Surfers. SSS is my favorite women’s surfing FB page. The post was a quip. A memory of my first stay in Costa Rica. My husband took me to Mal Pais, for my fortieth. That trip changed our lives in a drastic way. Surfing became a dominant passion.
On that first trip, I thought to myself, I could live here.The experience was off the charts. A tavern owner throwing down on locals who were causing trouble. A shotgun behind the bar and a stern voice did the trick. Learning to paddle out in big waves, via the channel. Going over a wave backwards (probably a good 12′, perfect storm style). Being held under in the dark, pinned and unable to move. Later, being directed to a perfect spot for me. A left point break. I had paid my dues and was rewarded with this secret surf info. So much was secret back then. I use to always wear a black one piece and a string of $40.00 pearls. Rooster, my husband took pics with our cardboard camera. I love those pics. Our final night was spent with my new surf crew and Italian pizza hostess wearing a leopard skin dress. Her dress was so Safari. One of my first TV adventure series that altered my world. She served moonshine with the meal.
Oh Lord, after ten days of all of this adventure, I sat out in the line up. The trees on the mountainous coast were glimmering. Sparkling. I went into sensory over load. I’m not kidding. My husband had to take me by the hand and lead me around.
I have the best husband. He didn’t surf before this trip. He had paddled out as a kid but that was it. He went home, had a board made, and became a 100% board head.
Costa Rica became our surf destination. We are from an island in North Florida. We would traverse the Florida coast as well. We had so much fun.
We bought property in Costa and started our back and forth existence. We surfed all we could. But always feeling like it was never enough. I have been that kind of surfer too. Always wanting to be better; get more waves. Now, I think more of having fun. And I do have fun.
There was a question asked earlier on the Sassy Silver Surfers – What will your future self say to your current self. YOU’RE ALMOST THERE. DON’T QUIT NOW!
My goal upon becoming a part of Costa Rica, in 2000, was to surf until I’m 80. Then I would rethink the situation.
I’m still in the game.
I never surfed a women’s contest at San Clemente, like I thought I would. Darn it. Not yet. I haven’t made it to the Mentawis or Morocco or Sri Lanka. Life got in the way. But I have done some wild surf adventures. The photo above is from a contest in front of Lola’s, at Playa Avellanas. One of my home breaks. It was such an honor. I was way older than the other women. There were a few forty year olds and a pack of badass teenage longboarders.
I have gotten to see all manners of changes in women’s surfing first hand. I’m amazed.
I can’t get over how women’s surfing has blown up. And I can tell you, I couldn’t be happier about it. The girls at Avellanas, CR can walk those boards, drop knee turn, arms out and looking good. And the young girls on Amelia Island have virtually taken over the line up, thanks to David Montgomery and Betsy Harris. owners and teachers for Surf Asylum.
Yep, the next ten years I am going to surf as much as I can. Tomorrow morning I meet Monica Duffy of La Sirena Surf Adventures. We’ll start out at Tamrindo. She use to call me her mentor. Now it’s her keeping me in the water with her big surf energy.
It’s all good.
One wave at a time. One day at a time. One year at a time.
See you in the water.
Fish Eye Farm 