I like that ~ this was a comment, made to me, in reference to my calling Fernandina Beach a dumping beach break, in my last post,
Yes, the waves there can jack up and break over shallow water, and the people, that surf that break, are awesome! I’ve always admired that. But I can’t surf it. I want to get in the water and catch some waves.
This is my home break, in CR, and has been since 1996. When in Florida, I use to surf the Pier, Huegonot, and the Poles. Now I’d rather be Secondhand Surfer when I’m there. It’s been exciting for me, to get my photos, learning my camera, and giving away the many photographs, that I have taken of the Fernandina Beach Surfers. It makes me feel whole and connected. Continue reading My Ego is not My Amigo