I like that ~ this was a comment, made to me, in reference to my calling Fernandina Beach a dumping beach break, in my last post,
Yes, the waves there can jack up and break over shallow water, and the people, that surf that break, are awesome! I’ve always admired that. But I can’t surf it. I want to get in the water and catch some waves.
This is my home break, in CR, and has been since 1996. When in Florida, I use to surf the Pier, Huegonot, and the Poles. Now I’d rather be Secondhand Surfer when I’m there. It’s been exciting for me, to get my photos, learning my camera, and giving away the many photographs, that I have taken of the Fernandina Beach Surfers. It makes me feel whole and connected.
I am here in Costa Rica for a short stay.
I’m here catching some waves, with my friends, that I have made through the years. I identify with this beach. It’s a family beach, and EVERYBODY SURFS!
This is what I wanted for myself. I could have stayed on the island, but I chose to seek something different
I agree, my ego is never my amigo. It’s what separates me from others.
I once saw it as an acronym, Easing God Out. So, I always try to think in those terms.
Back to beach breaks vs.rocks
Playa Grande is the closest break to me, and come to think of it, it’s Jacksonville South. It’s also a dumping beach break. If I surf there, I go to the big rock down on the right. I like rocks.
Rocks are my friends.
* I might add – the article – Rocks are My Friends – was more about friends than rocks – it’s literary
* Also, if I get your picture and you don’t want it, throw it in the trash-you have that right!
2 thoughts on “My Ego is not My Amigo”
Holy Moley! That snook is a hog Cheri! Did you catch her recently? Lure or bait? Say hello to that old mill worker, dude always has been cool as heck.
white grub/red tail……I will tell him…..