When I was young
I was so much older then
When I was young
Category: December 2012
Flying Home
Ocean Angels
It won’t be long and I’ll be headed back to the East Coast. I followed my friend to his break, San Onofre, and settled in to take pics. The waves were small, but the sun had come out. These waves are long and it gives a person a chance, to set up and walk around. These women are regulars and practiced. I enjoyed watching and shooting.
I don’t look forward to the flight.
I have done so much in the last week. I’ve visited bad old haunts and good old friends.
It’s been great.
California Bucket List
John Lyman Photos
This is the caliber of photographer that I aspire to be. I had so much fun surfing at the Huntington Beach Pier today. The waves were small, like they’ve been, since we’ve been here in California.
I work to be as savvy with a camera and technology as John Lyman is. When I first met John, in Tamarindo, he worked with film. Some of the best pictures I have of me surfing, are by him, at the River Mouth, in Playa Avellanas.
Everyday here, has been filled with adventure and good food and great friends.
It just doesn’t get any better.
CA/FL
Wet Suits ~ uh huh
Today we will trek to Echo Park. An area of Los Angeles that I lived in in 1985. That should be interesting. When I got off of the plane here a few days ago, my mind was flooded with memories. I can’t believe I expended that much energy in those four short months. UNBELIEVABLE!
However, it all brought me to today. And that’s what counts.
Stewart
Looking for a board? This is the Stewart Surf Shop in San Clemente, CA. I surfed this morning at San Onofre~ spent a lot of time standing around the fire, watching and BS-ing with my friend Karen. I easily acclimate to this lifestyle ~ pronto. I’ve been in training, for a life time.
After surfing, we cruised the Pacific Coast Highway and up to Santa Monica.
I an going to surf Hunington Beach Pier tomorrow.
Somebody’s gotta do it!
San Onofre
This morning was San Onofre special. Our friend, Glenn, surfs there EVERYDAY! Do these people know how lucky they are? Ron, with the surf van and the friendly dog, has been surfing this break since 1958. I told him I’d been trying to get there, since 1958. Really, more like 68′, but it did get a laugh.
It was definitely bucket list, to stand on that beach. I could feel it.
They don’t call this beach, Old Man’s, for nothing. It’s Old Man’s and Old School. It’s difficult to appreciate that until you’ve lived and surfed a long time. I’ve surfed a lot of beaches in the western hemisphere that surfers want to travel to. But this place was more.
These folks get up and surf before work, hang out at the fire and they’ve been doing it for years.
Rachel, was a stand out, walking to the nose every ride.
Tomorrow, we’re all planning to catch waves.
I can’t come this far and not surf! That water looks COLD!
Sunday Surfers-H.A
I received a Happy Anniversary note from Word Press today. It was a year ago, that I first signed up for this gig. I had no idea where it was headed and I still don’t. This year has seen its ups and downs, with my blog being a steadfast anchor. Thanks to everyone who has supported me and encouraged my photography and writing.
And thanks to all the awesome surfers, who have added a colorful element to my existence, while traveling on this rock called Earth.
King of the Peak
Brady McKenzie/King of the Peak
Last night was the premier for the surf movie – King of the Peak. 
Rick Chapman, Jessee Chapman, Bradley Dunham, Skyler DeBerry, Jarrod Kaylor and Zach Church
This event, the movie and the contest, was put on by our local East Coast Surfing Association. Rick is a talented surfer himself and invests much of his time, helping to provide a healthy environment for the local youth to compete. These guys are fierce competitors, in the water and friends on land. I know. Through my photography, I am a witness.
Rob and Melissa Ruy + kid in the next row.
I wish I had more pictures, for this post and for my archive. But my camera, the A495 Canon, which is a forty dollar camera, that cost me eighty in Costa Rica, is a piece of junk. Not because it’s a bad camera, but because I’ve dropped it so many times. It’s not what it use to be.
I find myself working with “what I have”.
But most importantly, I have pictures of this evening, burnt in my brain. I see smiling faces. I see groms riding waves.
This morning, I’m sitting in Starbucks listening to jazz, Christmas tunes, and overhearing the few other regulars, talking about football.
Everyone behind the counter is someone I feel like I know.
I have been here in Fernandina since May. I have not spent a winter here, on the island, in twelve years.
In the last seven months, I have been surrounded by families. Good families. People that spend time with their children.
As a matter of fact, Brady, who won the title, King of the Peak, could hand his crown to his Dad.
I’m in a good spot here, for now.
I feel a part of ~ Take Me To The Beach ~ where the Sun is my father and the Ocean my mother – I’m surrounded by sand, salt air and friends – life has no end………………
Take Me To The Beach
Queen of the Peak
Fish Eye Farm 