The suggested thought for the day, is ‘waiting’. That’s rather apopopos, as I have been waiting to start this blog for about six months. There’s no time like the present, so here I am, Mama Cheri.
I am sitting in my small house in Costa Rica, waiting on our car to be fixed. The swell is here and there have been waves, all day long. Off shore winds are blowing and I am
One of the reasons why I decided to move here; Guanacaste, CR, was to be where there are consistent waves. I am from North East Florida and my whole life was about waiting on waves. First when I was a kid and lived on the west side of town, as far away from the beach as you could get. My family spent our summers at the beach and I had to wait through the winters. Then I had the awful years of when I thought I was suppose to be doing something else and it was like “Waiting on Godot”. Everything was an event that was never going to happen, an endless stretch of meaningless years. Then I turned forty and came to my senses.
I thought to myself, what am I doing? The only time I’m really happy is when I’m surfing! That thought sparked the years of surfing like a kid again. And waiting on Costa Rica vacations. I would surf every day I could, preparing for the ten or twelve days of hard core CR surfing. It just wasn’t enough. I wanted to live where I didn’t feel desperate, for a wave. That led to ultimate move and the ongoing saga of catching waves at my homebreak, Playa Avellanas.
I’ve been surfing there now for fifteen years. I’ve never regretted the leap of faith involved in placing myself, on one of the most beautiful beaches, in the world. My wait for waves is soothed by the fact that they keep rolling in. I might miss it today. But there will be plenty more.
My goal in life is to surf as long as I’m able.
I dream of the next wave.
I wait the inevitable~ one wave at a time.
5 thoughts on “Apropos”
I really enjoyed your films throughout the 70’s and always wondered what happened to Mama Cheri. Thanks for the update
Ah ha~I’ve discovered my unanswered comment. Thank you for giving me an opportunity to learn, amigo.
“I am from North East Florida and my whole life was about waiting on waves…”
No way! I grew up in Ponte Vedra Beach, and went to high school near downtown Jax before heading inland for 4 years at UF. I recently moved out west for more consistent surf but got stuck with crowds instead.
I’ll make sure to keep reading your blog – love your photos!
I’m waiting on waves right now. If I’m not surfing, I’m waiting. Come to think of it, in the water, if I’m not on the wave, I’m waiting. lol I’ve never surfed the west coast north of Mexico. The crowds are getting bad here, but I get my waves. I’m following your blog. I immediately like it.
Reblogged this on Secondhand Surfer Blog and commented:
This blog was my first. I am still waiting….I’m in Florida now….I am recalling the days of pre-blog existence. *This painting is one of the few in this blog that is not my own work. Almost every photgraphy is mine also………….