What does it all mean?
The stimulating intellectual atmosphere in which I grew up = Duck!
E=MC squared = something I wrote on the blackboard after watching a Mickey Mouse cartoon. I was mistaken for a genius.
Plank units = the number of boards I have to buy from Home Depot.
Cosmic acceleration = when my car runs without overheating.
When I catch a wave ~ get up ~ and Go!
Kinetic Energy = when the look on my face changes into the biggest smile possible, as I’m paddling back out.
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A few years back, upon getting out of the water, at Huguenot Park, Florida, I overheard a guy in the parking lot say, as a joke, but with a bit of sadness in his voice, “I thought that Gidget was just a myth.”
There are more and more women in the water.
This is the future.
Everyone on WordPress is reviewing their year; all of their blogging projects and challenge entries. I didn’t do any of that, this year. It was all I could do, to do what I did. If you know what I mean.
Looking back, I was nominated for a Versatile Blogger Award, but didn’t respond to it, because I didn’t know how. Dwellable contacted me, because they thought my blog would be a good representation of Fernandina Beach, Florida, my home town. But I didn’t know how to transfer the button. And I’m still writing the text on my photos, because I don’t know how to create a watermark. As shabby as it may sound, I still see these as a success.
My main goal, in Secondhand Surfer, has become to capture the best surf memories that I can. I choose this hobby, as opposed to psychotropics. (In editing, I realize, I should probably let y’all know that I have never used psychotropics.)(Not that I have anything against psychotropics.)(hmmmm…nevermind) My blog, gets me out of the house. It puts me on the beach in the sunshine, in the morning, at sunset, in the wind. It overrides my negative side. My camera introduces me to people. My photography gives my life direction.
The photos above jumped out at me last night, as I browsed my archives. I have thousands of pictures from last year.
I don’t have any favorite surfers or breaks. You could be on the biggest wave of the year or taking off in the white water on your first wave ever, it doesn’t matter to me.
I’ve surfed off and on all of my life. Although I’m an artist, and I have always utilized photography, I never would have chosen to be on the beach, behind a camera, over being in the water.
When I started this blog last year and named it Secondhand Surfer, I had no idea how appropriate it would be. Me and my camera, we SECONDHAND SURF! My smile is big as anyone’s in the water!.
Thanks to all the surfers, and supportive friends who helped me to have such a great year. And thanks to WordPress for affording me this venue, not only to display my journal and photos, but to read others as well.
It won’t be long and I’ll be headed back to the East Coast. I followed my friend to his break, San Onofre, and settled in to take pics. The waves were small, but the sun had come out. These waves are long and it gives a person a chance, to set up and walk around. These women are regulars and practiced. I enjoyed watching and shooting.
I don’t look forward to the flight.
I have done so much in the last week. I’ve visited bad old haunts and good old friends.
It’s been great.
California Bucket List
Wet Suits ~ uh huh
Today we will trek to Echo Park. An area of Los Angeles that I lived in in 1985. That should be interesting. When I got off of the plane here a few days ago, my mind was flooded with memories. I can’t believe I expended that much energy in those four short months. UNBELIEVABLE!
However, it all brought me to today. And that’s what counts.
Fish Eye Farm 