Donny’s Dead

Donny got his wings.

He didn’t die with his boots on. He was barefoot.

My Dear Donny,

We played a lot of music together. I’ve been missing that music, for a long time.

I’ve not been writing long posts. Who has the time to read them? Who has the time to write them?

But Donny’s life is worthy of words. He should have been a star/was a star. Donny was like an old time, country music legend. The way he looked, the way he lived and the way he played his songs. Continue reading Donny’s Dead

Lucky 3X’s

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IMG_5645Meet Sean Poynter

Last year, Sept 9th, courtesy of Hurricane Leslie, we had waves here on Amelia. I had surfed earlier in the day and was just cruising the beach. I had my camera in the car, so I headed to a spot I thought might be working. I could hear an announcer over a loud-speaker. There was a contest going on. It was an ESA event, along with what is called the King of the Peak, challenge.

What Seneca, a philosopher, once said, ” Luck is what happens when preparation meets opportunity.” I stepped out of my car, and went to work. I have hundreds of pictures from that day. Continue reading Lucky 3X’s

Stoke!

ac6d837fb69e91869e6c87aac10bacd8The word stoke has a surf connotation.

However, my first recollection of its use was to fuel a fire; whether to give the burning wood air, to keep the flame ablaze, or throwing on another log. Stoke meant expending energy to keep things going. In this case, fire.

Pre-Columbia, our island’s first known inhabitants were the Timicuan Indians. In the above picture, you see the fire tenders, in the center of the compound. Their job was imperative, as the fire was necessary for their survival.

In the forefront, a dugout canoe is being hand crafted. Being on the water, was another essential part of life.

On Amelia, many years have passed, since the Indians walked their paths, to the sea.

But the trail has not been left cold. Continue reading Stoke!

Dear Journal

Dear Journal,

I have been working; photographing the cutest surfers ever.

IMG_8157 IMG_8145IMG_8205I told you.

I just completed the third week of surf camp. I have the simple job of creating photo packages for the parents, who purchased, The Super~ Secondhand Surfer~ Photo Package. I have a quota of pics, that I promised. And, of course, I want them to be good.

There is an easier way to do this, and I am working on that.

As far as suiting up and showing up, I might as well be working for Surf Magazine; the energy that I put into this.

It’s very exciting, to watch the kids learn about the ocean, surfing and just having fun in general.

Unfortunately, we had two days with a heat index over 105 degrees.

Luckily for me, I own an O’Neil, broad brimmed, straw hat, with a lining. It’s like wearing an umbrella, on my head.photo-2

I sometimes get in the water with an Olympus TG-2.   I have to switch hats for that. When in the water I rely on my black Local, Pipeline ball cap.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe pictures I’m getting are fun.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

I’m having a problem with that camera. I have to ship it back to Amazon, for an exchange.

Such is the life of a surf photographer.

Journal, I just wanted to report in.

It’s all good.

P.S. Meet Preston

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERALike a post script to a letter, I must add more about Preston. He’s the first surfer in my last entry, Artist Update.

Preston came through the door of the Pipeline Surf Shop, last Monday, saying hello and introducing himself to everyone.

Here he is after five days of surf, enjoying the Friday, end of camp, Luau.

There is no one like Preston.

He’s the Man!

P.S. What a great week.

Artist Update

Pablo Picasso‘s most famous quote is ~ Every child is an artist. The problem is how to remain an artist once we grow up. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThis is Preston. He’s from Tennessee.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOwenOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAdamOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe Group

Secondhand Surfer is the photographer for the Pipeline Slammin Summer Surf Camp.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERANick

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERABradley

Photography + Surf Camp = Problem Solved

 

Car Show

Post ESA contest shoot, I headed downtown Fernandina to check out the car show. Unfortunately, I missed the show, but did see a lot of cars in the streets.

Something is always going on ~ on the island.