Category: April 2012

Jimmy and Whitney

I opened my eyes this morning in Tennessee. I am visiting my friends Jimmy and Whitney. We met them in the jungle in Costa Rica.

To be correct that was the Upper Eastside of the jungle.

On the Road Again

I’m glad I had a day to surf ~ Following that day, I hit the road again. Last night I stayed with friends, Connie and The Man, in Charleston, South Carolina. Their home is a house in it’s own small forest, in the middle of a suburb. When I woke up to get my coffee, I heard what sounded like the rushing noise of fast, moving water. It was cars on the freeway. I couldn’t tell the difference. Continue reading On the Road Again

Lil Sista’

I went to the beach yesterday, with my camera. The waves had died down and there was a chill in the air. Not my favorite conditions. But I was glad I was there to capture this image.

This little one was spending the day at the beach with Mom, Dad and her brother and sister. What a life.

It’s a Better World

It’s a better world when I surf. I paddled out yesterday for the first time here in Florida.  Fernandina Beach, FL is my primary home. This morning, I was reminded of the day that came every year, when my mother would drive us out of the woods, on the Westside of Jacksonville, for our long stay at the beach. It was an annual trip, following winter. We were never allowed to get into the water before May. I was a little kid.

I still have little kid ways. And I’m glad. Those memories and the feeling that I get surfing are free. There’s no debt and no interest to pay. And it’s great owning cherished memories of my mother. Surfing is the best, and really if it hadn’t been for my mother and her love of the ocean, I’m sure I would never have become a surfer.

By the way, my mother only had one traffic ticket in her life; a speeding ticket when when she was about sixty. She wasn’t even going that fast. She did not drive over the speed limit. It always took us a LONG time to get to the beach, but they were good road trips.

When riding on A1A we look up to the flag for our most important weather report. If it looks like this it’s a west wind. And further inspection is required. 

West winds make the waves clean, but unfortunately it can make them smaller, little by little. However, we have a bit of a ground swell going on, so I waited for low tide and the waves to push in. I had so much fun surfing, small chest high waves. They were breaking left, off of the sandbar built up by the local pier. It was a tough crowd to be in, because it was kids, but that’s OK, everyone starts somewhere.

The twins were out.

They obviously love to surf too. They charged some good waves.

Then it was back to my surf-mobile and a ride, back to the woods. At least these days, I don’t have to go back to the Westside.

Yes, it’s a better world today.

We’re expecting good waves Saturday and Sunday. Historically, we always have good waves on Easter. Thank you, Jesus.

P.S. One day maybe, I won’t write in my short choppy sentences, telling my story before I run out the door. Maybe one day, I will give descriptions of the water and how it really feels to be in the water and catch waves. And my words will make you feel like you’re right there with me.

P.S.S. One day maybe.

Today’s the Day

Me and this kid have a lot in common. We’re dreaming! I want to go surfing. I started this blog, writing about surfing. I was in Costa Rica, but have since been exiled to Florida. It has been too cold for me to bother. However, yesterday the sun was out and I saw a bit of a swell ! It’s two to three feet and I am excited. I can taste it. I can’t wait. I’m living out in the woods and it’s thirty minutes from the break. I have to go to town for other reasons and my board is going with me.

If I get to surf today, I am going to be reborn~again. I guess, deep down, surfing is my religion.

I’m off to see the Surf Wizard. Let’s see what happens!

Blog Bog

Blogging seems to be like everything else that I do. I overdose. It prompted some unnecessary thinking. Thinking is highly over-rated. It usually leads to misery.

The more you know, the more you know, you don’t know.

What’s that saying about everything being wasted on youth?

Uh-I’ll have to THINK about that!