This might not be the biggest wave of Hurricane Sandy but to me it’s one of my favorite photos from that storm.
This wave is in Fernandina Beach, FL. It has never been the easiest place to surf. It is a shallow beach break, which means, that it tends to break fast and is unforgiving. When you don’t make a wave here at low tide, especially in bigger waves, it can feel like hitting concrete.
So, it’s not a good idea to learn to surf in hurricane waves. In places where surfing is more a part of the local culture, people don’t mind paying their dues in the white water. Continue reading No Fear