Pipas, Sun and Real Books

Granted this is a blurred photo, but I can’t seem to part with it. It’s from one of the most cherished times. I’m sitting on a log, drinking coffee and reading a book in my make-shift kitchen. It’s in the dry season, at Playa Avellanas, Costa Rica. I have everything I need. Notice the wooden box, on the right, in the back of the picture. That’s my stove and cupboard area. I, also, have a phone hanging on the tree.

The waves are plentiful, right out front. To me, Playa Avellanas is one of the most attractive beaches in the world.

I have been here on the island, way longer than I ever intended. I look forward to heading south again.

Life in Costa Rica is syrupy slow. It’s conducive to  stress free, healthy living.

The speed of life here shows no sign of slowing down. I have begun to compare blogs and the internet as a fast food literary source.

It won’t be long and I’ll be back in the tropics, drinking pipas, riding some waves, reading real books and attempting to communicate in Spanish.

If I end up in a tent~no problem.

PURA VIDA PURA VIDA PURA VIDA PURA VIDA PURA VIDA PURA VIDA

I’m beginning to FEEL it.

Surfing, Misplaced Christmas and a Weird New Year

First, I want to tell you, that two mornings ago, my friend Jeffro and I, did a dawn patrol. We surfed alone, for probably thirty minutes. I have not experienced this here, in years.  It was awesome; the waves, the water, the sky, the coastline and no people to distract my focus. It was glassy, with an offshore wind.

My husband and I, used to surf, Playa Avellanas, by ourselves, quite a bit. I’ll never forget the day, we paddled out, at the river mouth, and I paddled right in to the first wave, of a clean up set. It had to be ten feet. I don’t expect that to ever happen again. I didn’t have time to think. I just went. And there was not one person out there for me to worry about hitting. In recent years, I’ve paddled and backed out of more than one wave; because there were a line of surfers, at the bottom of the wave, looking up at me. For years, we enjoyed surfing with an average of  twelve people in the water, in front of Lola’s, a local restaurant, which used to be Freddie’s. We had many days with two or three other people at the river mouth.

This is Jeffro.

I am so grateful for all of those days, in the water, with few people. Those were the days. And the older I get, the more I know, these are the “good ole days”. That kind of attitude goes a long way when your session is “invaded” by fifty people. That’s what happened two days ago. But I was happy. I got my waves and I got out. It was a great morning. Continue reading Surfing, Misplaced Christmas and a Weird New Year

With patience………………

With patience you possess your soul. Luke 21:19

I became aware of this scripture, in the Kings James Bible, with the help of a friend. I think of it often, because it rings true for me.  They are important words to me.

I was taught the concepts of “acceptance” and “cease fighting everyone and everything”, and these ideals have helped to remold my life.

There’s another saying that was a guiding force for years, “patience and perseverance” is the key to all success.

But they all seem to pale in comparison, to the promise, of possession of your soul, through the practice of patience.

Every day is fraught with opportunities to practice patience. Today  was a good one.

On our way to Playa Avellanas the surf sled broke down, on the side of the road. We were there for three hours. Fortunately, one of us is a good mechanic. We all new the swell was here, and we really wanted to get into the waves. But we stuck together and helped in the repair~~~Did your mother ever tell you, that you could really help,  by being quiet~~~~~~~

Our plight was made easier, by breaking down, right in front of a coffee shop.

This picture of my friends, brought to mind, images from my childhood. I would go with my mother to the closest, grocery store. We lived, “out”, and had to drive miles, for any conveniences. I don’t remember exactly how old I was, but I would guess nine or ten. There would often be kids sitting on the curb. I took these children to be street urchins, and I wanted to be one! In my mind, they portrayed freedom and independence, and that’s what I wanted.

There’s another saying,” be careful of what you wish for”.

After the car was repaired, which seemed sort of miraculous, by Costa Rican standards, my friends and I parted ways; not much worn for the wear. They went on to surf and I decided to start again tomorrow. I can wait.

That’s one of the great things about living in CR. The waves keep rolling in. I’m all about the saying, never leave good surf. However, today I never got there to leave it. So all is well.

The New American Standard Bible translates Luke 21: 19 into, ‘By your endurance, you will gain your life”.

That’s just not the same.

I wish Tom Sawyer were here and I could get his opinion.

What do you think?

Creating good days!

Creating good days today; creates good days, tomorrow. It makes happy yesterdays. Happiness and good days are key ingredients to longevity and well-being. How many times do you hear that idea tossed about?

Two evenings ago riding back from the surfbreak, Playa Avellanas, my friend and I got into a bit of a heated conversation about aging and surfing and competitiveness and illness. He kept talking and I kept talking back. My voice kept getting louder and louder. I was working hard to get my point across.

I have never bought into the widely accepted concept that illness is a part of the aging process. Forget it! Your beliefs are your strengths or weaknesses. Come to think of it, I never accepted the idea of plucking my eyebrows either. It just didn’t make sense, to stand in front of a mirror and inflict pain on myself.

That being said, before I left the States a month ago, I saw Piper Austin on a local news show. She had just won the Girls~East Coast Champion Title. Not bad Piper! She was asked, what advice she would give to a surfer, who wanted to improve. Her immediate response was yoga.

Cling to what makes sense.

Hence:

My new yoga teacher,

Yesterday, I started out my day with a sattva yoga class. I know that as the years pass, if I don’t do something, I will continue to loose my flexibility. Everyday is a good day, to do something good for yourself!

Later in the day, I was back at Playa Avellanas, catching waves.

 

Does this make sense to you?

WARNING: do not believe these three downtrodden, mistaken myths; that you will become sick as you age, that surfing is only for the young and that you had to start surfing when you were a kid.

Life is what you make it. Have a good day!

Namaste

Did I make myself clear?