Sunday Surfers-H.A

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IMG_9127wpsI received a Happy Anniversary note from Word Press today. It was a year ago, that I first signed up for this gig. I had no idea where it was headed and I still don’t. This year has seen its ups and downs, with my blog being a steadfast anchor. Thanks to everyone who has supported me and encouraged my photography and writing.

And thanks to all the awesome surfers, who have added a colorful element to my existence, while traveling on this rock.

King of the Peak

IMG_7542wpbBrady McKenzie/King of the Peak

Last night was the premier for the surf movie – King of the Peak. IMG_1148

Rick Chapman, Jessee Chapman, Bradley Dunham, Skyler DeBerry, Jarrod Kaylor and Zach Church

This event, the movie and the contest, was put on by our local East Coast Surfing Association. Rick is a talented surfer himself and invests much of his time, helping to provide a healthy environment for the local youth to compete. These guys are fierce competitors, in the water and friends on land. I know. Through my photography, I am a witness.IMG_1145

Rob and Melissa Ruy + kid in the next row.

I wish I had more pictures, for this post and for my archive. But my camera, the A495 Canon, which is a forty dollar camera, that cost me eighty in Costa Rica, is a piece of junk. Not because it’s a bad camera, but because I’ve dropped it so many times. It’s not what it use to be.

I find myself working with “what I have”.

But most importantly, I have a pictures of this evening, burnt in my brain. I can see their smiling faces. I can see them riding waves.

This morning, I’m sitting in Starbucks listening to jazz, Christmas tunes, and overhearing the few other regulars, talking about football.

Everyone behind the counter is someone I feel like I know.

I have been here in Fernandina since May. I have not spent a winter here, on the island, in twelve years.

In the last seven months, I have been surrounded by families. Good families. People that spend time with their children.

As a matter of fact, Brady, who won the title, King of the Peak, could hand his crown to his Dad.

I’m in a good spot here, for now.

I feel a part of ~so~ Take Me To The Beach ~ where the Sun is ~ my father and the Ocean my mother-I’m surrounded by sand and air and friends-and life has no end………………

Take Me To The Beach

Queen of the Peak

Me and My Hoodie
Me and My Hoodie

Good Morning!

IMG_7838wppGood morning!

Everyday I want to rise up and enjoy the day the Lord has made.

I’ve been journaling, for around twenty-five years. I began a computer journal in 1997. I have stories, poems, detailed accounts of my life and my feelings. I have to do lists and declarations. I found a magic in writing. It helps to keep me centered.

When I go back and read, I’m always glad that I wrote.

This photo is another taken during Hurricane Sandy. It’s an anonymous surfer. Photographing this storm caught me by surprise. I felt my addiction to the ocean, to my camera and surfing. I talked to so many people, that I would have never met, had I not had my camera.

I will always have a bit of  OCD, ADD, ADHD and a few other letters of the alphabet. But I transform on the beach, vicariously surfing. My camera does for me what drugs never did.

I really want to give thanks to God this morning, for all that has been done for me.

This is my reality ~ and until my knees bent, back in 87′, I couldn’t make anything work for me.

Tonight, there is going to be a premier for a locally made movie, King of Fernandina, showcasing an East Coast Surfing Association. It is going to be AWESOME.

It’s a different life ~ different world.

 

Pay It

What a good wave…

There’s so many things that I want to do and want to learn.

I still haven’t been able to make a watermark. Any ten-year old ought to be able to handle that job. Right now, my text will have to do.

I posted a comment on my Facebook page, by Jim Carey. The jest of it was ~ all of the riches in the world will not bring happiness. It’s key to find what you love to do and then give it back.

Remember the movie – Pay It Forward. That’s an idealistic concept that actually works. I never want to forget that.

A Sprinkle of Remembrance

We will not regret our past~nor wish to shut the door on it.

Yesterday, when I was standing on the beach taking photos, the wind was biting cold to me. I didn’t like it at all! My nose began to get cold and I started remembering. I normally don’t mind sharing my memories and telling my story. But for some reason, with this I hesitated. I didn’t want to think about it. Continue reading A Sprinkle of Remembrance